# A LIDL bit of LED landfill (with a nice driver) ## Метаданные - **Канал:** bigclivedotcom - **YouTube:** https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aL-b-HgdNyQ ## Содержание ### [0:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aL-b-HgdNyQ) Segment 1 (00:00 - 05:00) I saw this in little and thought, well, let's get one and take a look at it. I was particularly interested in the fact that this light, which has three heads that can be swiveled to suit. Uh, it says the LEDs and the LED driver may only be replaced by a qualified electrician. I'm not convinced about that because ultimately this is completely unserviceable. It is another landfill light. Here's what you get. You've got the metal housing and it's useful to note that there is no obvious earthing attachment point. It is basically just this little block here that you can pop open and you can put a cable in as I've done. It also comes with heat well heat proof sle been needed because it's not going to get very hot. I have tested this and the power is 10 watt. So here we have an LED driver that is literally glued to the back of the case and uh we have a series circuit of the LED heads which I'll explore in a moment. But let's plug it in and show you it lit. So I'll just uh dazzle you all by um just plugging in right now. There it is. Dazzling. And you can then uh swivel and adjust these as you prefer to shoot light into suitable areas. Now, it would have been nice if they'd been GU10 lamps. I'll just unplug that because then you could just basically have taken a lamp out and changed it. But this is cost optimized. If we pop one of the covers off this, we see a little reflector and a circuit board just sat in there, uh, which has six LEDs on it. It looks as though they may be wired as uh parallel pairs. Three parallel pairs. Um let me just check that. Okay. So I was wrong that it's six individual LEDs all wired in series giving a combined forward voltage for the whole lot of uh that would be six it say about 20 volts drop across that 20 40 60 that doesn't seem right because this thing it says 25 to 40 volt. I wonder what the voltage across that is. I may have to explore this a bit further. Well, we can explore it a bit further. If I pop the cover off this, if I can that. Oh, there's the hot melt glue has just given. That's good. Um, let's see if we can get this cover off. I don't have the full armament of tools with me at the moment because travel. Well, that doesn't seem like it's actually even want to come off. Let's get the spudger. If I can find the spudger. Uh, which I'm not finding the spud. Oh, there's the spudger. Oops. Uh, so that comes off. Oh, it's straight onto the circuit board in there. Uh, so that's the mains in. Is there a terminal in the output? Oh, there is a little terminal in there, but I don't think I'm going to easily be able to probe into that. Um, I shall try. Um, let's just grab a dinky meter. And it is a very dinky meter, but it's fine. And we shall um plug this in and see what the voltages on the output of that. Maybe they're configured differently to what I'm thinking at the moment. Am I even going to be able to get that in? I'm not in there, am I? No. It's uh it's just not accessible. Um right. Uh give me a moment. I shall do a little experiment. No, actually, I tell you what. Let's uh turn it upside down. Keep my fingers well away from the mains bits. Um, and let's I can't see a thing here. Uh, hold on a second. Turn that off momentarily. Right. The connections there. And I'll probe across this radio steering directly into lights. That's nice. So, I'll go between here and here. there getting anything in the meter? Not really. Not actually making connection at all. I can't see a thing because I'm looking directly into light and that is not terribly helpful. It says 9. 2 volts. Is that really 9. 2 volts? I'm going to have to investigate this further and see how these are configured. One a moment, please. So the configuration is that they are parallel pairs kind of there. There are three LEDs in series for that 9 volts, but then there's another three in series next to it. So it is two effectively parallel sets of three LEDs in here. But anyway, the bit we're interested in here ### [5:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aL-b-HgdNyQ&t=300s) Segment 2 (05:00 - 10:00) is this little power supply. And I think it's time to take it back to the bench and take a look inside and see what how the quality of it looks compared to uh the typical importy type stuff. So, we'll take it back to the normal bench and take a look at it right now. And we're back once again with the Renegade Master D4 Damager Power to the people. Back at the usual bench. Uh, the reason I didn't reverse engineer this in Glasgow is because I got better stuff here to do that and it's just easier. And it means that by making the first part of the video in Glasgow, I didn't have to ship the whole light across which saved space in the luggage. Anyway, before we go any deeper, uh I can tell you that this is pretty good power supply. The case is interesting because it has little grips for gripping the cable on both parts and then when you put it together, it actually clicks down in steps. So, it can be left just sticking up a little bit and it is you push it down till it clamps the cable depending on the size of the cable. Quite nice. It is a 260 milliamp power supply with a open circuit voltage theoretically 55 volts but a normal voltage range of 25 to 40 volts. Let me show you the picture of the well photos. So this image is flipped. The reason it's flipped is just to make it easier for me to trace the components out. We have the incoming supply which is hardwired although they do have a push connector option there but they put it in permanently. There is a rectifier smoothing capacitor. There is some filtering an inductor and a filter capacitor. And then the transformer is very notable. The it is a proper isolated supply with a proper class Y capacitor. And the transformer you can see the thickness of the windings here. There are the triple insulated windings and they've got sleeve and they've got the little standoff here that keeps everything well separated. increases effectively the separation the tracking distance then the output we've got a diode and the capacitor here and then the terminals and a position for a switch which would I would guess have selected being between cold white and warm white. If we take a look at the other side of the circuit board, we have a incoming fusible resistor F1 15 ohm, the bridge fire to the capacitor, the inductor with a resistor across it, the extra filtering capacitor, and then a KP 11191 chip. It was very hard reading a number of that. I had to use uh various techniques. So, I ended up using uh Dave EEV Blogs technique of rubbing it with some uh some silicone uh oil zinc oxide surface all heat sink compound. Uh giving it a good rub in and then uh wiping it off and trying to get a bit of a contrast, but it is barely etched in. We've got the current sense resistors for operation. We've got a resistor to set the open circuit voltage, which is interesting. And it does have a snubber network plus an extra little capacitor there. I'll show you on the schematic. Oddly, there are two positions for the class Y capacitor, maybe optionally both, including one from the positive rail to the negative. At the output side, there is a diode. It's not a shortkey diode. It's just a high-speed diode. ES2G. There's a little smoothing capacitor, a slight load. There's the switch that would normally be able to switch between colors, and this link bypasses that. And that's more or less it. So, let's take a look at the schematic. And it's fairly straightforward. What happened there? How did it end up going at such an angle? Exciting. Here's the fusible resistor, the bridge rectifier, the 2. 2 megar death beam capacitor, the filtering 4. 7 millhenry, quite a high value with a resistor across it, and a presumably to damp. I'm not really sure why they put resistor across that. the uh experts in I'm guessing shunt resistor but the experts in supp RF suppression and stuff like that will know about that then a 220 nanofar capacitor across that the chip itself it's a KP1191 SP is powered via a 20k resistor now the data sheet for this doesn't show the resistor but they've put it in just to presumably take some of the dissipation away from that um there's a 10k resistor which sets the over voltage to protect that. Uh, basically speaking, monitors the secondary. How is it doing that then? If there's no feedback, it must be detecting it via the collapsing field on this. Interesting. There's a current sent resistor that will basically set the amount of energy gets put into the transformer and then transferred across. Um, so they've got two 3 ohm resistors with a total of 1. 5 ohm. And there's the snubber network. I mean they've really thrown everything in here including a capacitor between the drain ### [10:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aL-b-HgdNyQ&t=600s) Segment 3 (10:00 - 12:00) and the zero volt rail now because it switches to 0 volt rail although having said that the current sense resistors will limit that to a degree yeah that will limit the peak current um but I don't think this is a high value couldn't really measure it because it was in circuit and getting skewed but there's an M7 a very standard diode thought they'd have chosen something faster for that uh current limiting resistor which is not shown in the schematic and then just the standard ard snubber network that clips the slight spike to protect the MOSFET in here. On the output, we have the ES2G, a high-speed diode. We've got a suitably low ESR capacitor. That's the bit that will fail in this over time. And then a slight load resistor just for stability. Um, just for reference, the bit that will fail is this capacitor here. your 47 megard 50 volt has to be low ESR high frequency type capacitor because of the nature of the power supply but that's it you know what fundamentally um it's quite you know the light itself is hold on I'm just going to adjust the lighting that's better the light itself is not serviceable it's a bit landfill um that thing about saying you know that should only be serviced by an electrician what they mean is just swap it out completely as soon as one LED fails. So, I don't know how long it's going to last. Although, this power supply is quite nice, but um it does uh offer for us if we had one of these lights, we wouldn't necessarily need to change it. We could just uh basically fix the power supplies, the power supply and potentially the LEDs, although that's not so easy. But that's it. I'm surprised how good this is. The and the way it all clips together. It's actually held in by a couple of clips in here. And it's got all that separation as if it's a proper isolated power supply, which I suppose that's to classify with the uh double insulated standard. But there we go. Uh no points for being landfill, but definitely points the power supply. It does actually seem quite a good product. --- *Источник: https://ekstraktznaniy.ru/video/39547*