# I Thought I Blew My Engine on Pikes Peak BUT… 

## Метаданные

- **Канал:** Rob Dahm
- **YouTube:** https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGW5g_jmqCo

## Содержание

### [0:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGW5g_jmqCo) Segment 1 (00:00 - 05:00)

Oh, it's supposed to be right there. Holy [ __ ] I did not have that on my bingo card. I am very proud of this being the battleworn version of the car. Rob put this vent almost exactly in the right spot based on the damage. This is what my lungs look like. It felt like the first time I ever smoked weed, which I never have. But when I thought about it, like how I would be if I did, it was just a bunch of I'm good. Joel found some fire. probably saw it in the last video. We didn't know about it until now. Realistically, I think that I probably folded one rotor in. Now, what's really fascinating is by the time the engine died, I compared that directly to last year's run. Now, mind you, I was significantly faster than last year, but it was the same temperature outside. Coolant was 12° colder and then the oil was almost 20° colder. The water sprayers, the ducting, the venting, everything was working as designed, if not better than anticipated. I could not tell you how incredible movie like that run was for me. It was not an endurance race at that point. It was a drag race. 100% of my effort as far as I could go and that ended up being one turn left. But really, my goal right now is just a quick rebuild, show you the damage, and get it back together. And we've got a solid car that we will then neglect for the rest of the year. This is a very brief moment in this shop where we have two fully assembled, functional, ready to go fourers. We have the full billet one, which is going to be roughly $50 to $60,000 to build. And then this one, which is the entertaining original one from 2015 for me. So, this plate, the main E-shaft, all those parts are all from the original motor that never got built. So, I finally built my baby and it is now hurt. Hurt has the whole video on the full install. Almost time to let this one go out of my hands. As many of you may know, our next door neighbor is Yogi, one of the best Formula Drift photographers. And it was like, "Hey, if you guys got something cool, let me shoot it. " We haven't had that, and not until now. This was supposed to be before the event, but better late than never. We get the nice little photo shoot of the car in its top agame shape. It has never looked this good. Even with the battle damage from the heat, it looks absolutely sexy. That's impressive. I can see the veins in my eyelids. I melted all the wires on the e-gate together. It basically shorted out, but it was shorted out closed, so that worked. But I had no boost control after about half the run. We melted all the wires on every single oxygen sensor. We didn't have an oxygen sensor at all that entire run. We didn't have the e-gate the second half of the run. And yet, we still did what we did. Oh, it's supposed to be in there. — Holy [ __ ] I did not have that on my bingo card. That's from overspooling that thing 40 to 50% higher than it was rated to do repeatedly. So, what you can see in the video is me flattening my apex seal springs because of the heavy duty shifting. So, once that happened, once I got under a certain RPM, you can see the engine die. So, what I do is I clutch in, rev it to the moon, it gets back to the high RPM where the apex seals create compression, car comes alive, 15 lbs of boost. I drop the clutch. Well, up at that altitude and the tires roasting. They never hooked for a second and a half. This turbo spun over 35 to 40% over its limit, its peak required limit, and the compressor couldn't take it anymore. The sad part is all that extra metal is no longer here. It is now here. I'm hoping it's kind of like a cholesterol. I want it to be either too small or so big that it got wedged on the inside of the intercooler. And if it's too small, okay, gums up the apex seals or whatever. But the white smoke, I think that it probably blew a hole in a rotor. To be honest, for the last few years, I have done everything in my power within reason to try and stay my best. One of the most foundational things that have been a part of my life is AG1. It has been something that has been eye opening for me, especially as you get into your 40s. The important thing is to feed your body properly. Now, I live in the shop during the week and so I don't always have the best lifestyle or food choices, but I do have one of the best foundations and that is why they very clearly say it's daily foundational nutrition. AG1 supports both my energy and my digestion, which are so important to me. Instead of taking 20 different supplements, you can just take AG1. And better yet, AG1 has taken it a step further with the new NextGen. Those are five different strands of probiotics. Not only does the original flavor come in NextGen, but so do these. There are

### [5:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGW5g_jmqCo&t=300s) Segment 2 (05:00 - 10:00)

multiple flavors. I got citrus, berry, and tropical. The travel packets are super convenient. Well, you always want to get as much as you can from your diet. I was somebody who was not getting enough D3 and this was a gamecher. Go to drinkagg1. com/rodomm or click on the cur code. When you first subscribe, you get a free welcome kit that includes five travel packs as well as D3K2. Thanks to AG1 for sponsoring today's video. So, I was going to do my postmeal walk. And I saw the shitty eating grin on Joel's face and I'm like, that's not good. — Look at your wiring harness. — The car ran until I shut it off. Touch it. — I did not order that. Well done. — Something was on fire in that area. This is my original fuel tech harness that I modified to make it work for this. That's a complete redo. Does actually bring me a smile for Joel. But — no, no. We'll skim through that. — No, no, no, no. [ __ ] that. I was surprised watching the replay and seeing I shut the car off after that turbo and this wiring harness took this sort of beating. We have experimented with so many different ways of manipulating this and it seems to be that when you're this hot, you can't just insulate. You have to remove the energy as well. I want to basically create really thin steel shield that's essentially sealed off from the rest of the car. It's a pain in the ass, but the idea being that we can pipe air in from one side and anything inside of that steel bucket is then met with this cold air and then that whole thing has to come out with the exhaust. — You will never see three complete engines like this. two four rotors and the billet three rotor with the fat iron. It actually gets really close in length. So if we make them back to back from here to here, that's less than a rotor's width because of this guy. I do have a short shaft turbo three rotor e-shaft on its way to build what I think is the ultimate three rotor that's not part of this. Funny enough, as we dug into this car more and more, it looks like the engine was the problem less and less. It's a heartbreak as soon as you open it up, but right now it's Schroinger's rotary engine. It's both blown and not blown at the same time. Joel and I saw that uh aluminum inside two of the rotors. And I'm hoping that the coolant that's in rotor one was from the turbo. Before I completely start disassembling the motor, I need to hear the opposite of what I do when I build a motor. And that's and hopefully that's what we hear. I'm going backwards. I don't know which rotor filled with coolant. Um, the signs aren't particularly clear to me. I'm going to spin it the correct way as long as you hear that. That's even consistent compression. One of them's louder than the others because it's filled with water. But do you hear that? And think maybe. Oh, it smells funky. That's a very very positive sign. Starts with the easiest first step of just getting your 1 in Milwaukee monster. — There we go. — That was so easy. — That wasn't a lot of cutting and video magic. We're going to go ahead and separate rotor three from its mortar coil. This is a good sign. Nothing unexpected there. Time to pull the rotor. Bearings look great. Yeah, there's a there a little bit of a something in there, but I can't I can barely feel that at this point. As long as each of the uh surfaces are okay. Keep these apex seals with this rotor with this housing cuz they're bedded in at this point. Traditionally, all my rotors were dented from detonation. And you can see there are no detonation marks on this rotor. So, that's a very big improvement from my past. So, this is really, really subtle. That middle one is very flat. You can see it's not arcing as tight of a radius as the outer one. So, when you do that, it wants to go straight. It is slight, but it's what I was expecting to have happened. Not the turbo thing, but I was expecting to have flattened uh apex seal springs. So, that's subtle. It's fine, but I was expecting straight lines. One thing I noticed, this inner oil control ring is gone. Well, not gone, but kind of gone. Good news is it's all smooth. It looks not smooth, but it is not catching anything. So, whatever uh occurred was a polishing, just gentle enough that we'll replace these oil control rings, which are stupidly expensive, but we're good.

### [10:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGW5g_jmqCo&t=600s) Segment 3 (10:00 - 15:00)

I was not expecting that to be the final boss. Okay, step one. Bearings are in perfect shape. She looks great. I don't think it was the engine at all. Wow. Holy [ __ ] Had we not taken it apart, we would have all this metal just where it would have blown the motor ultimately. But this is proof you can take a compressor failure on a rotary and not completely grenade everything. My flat shifting wasn't what killed the motor. The stuff that I used, it literally says gasket non-h hardening sealant. And I was like, that's a cool idea, but you can't use that to seal oil. So what Joel just found, it did go into the holes. See, you can see it's disappearing, but the oil just ate straight through this, and that's what we were leaking. Oil was just coming through this the whole time. We'll take the stone to all of this and make sure everything's flat. Oh, look at that. Is that directly in line with the coolant? I think it is. It's not between two things. It looks like a ball bearing hole, but that could be why we were smoking every time we'd start up. Well, Devcon like this stuff and then flatten it. Yeah. What? How did I miss that? I was like, "Let's check up on the intercooler cuz engines got tons of weird small [ __ ] into it. " But there is technically a filter. Look at that. You can see the marks, the machining marks on those pieces of aluminum when it once was sections of a compressor. It no longer is. But thankfully, the way that disintegrated created big chunks. — Oh [ __ ] that's steel. It's a snap ring, I think, for the center rotating assembly. — We've got a tool. We're just basically trying to do what Mazda did. And this is kind of a cone to hold the lobe and this all in place. And basically, we're trying to push this inward. So, this whole assembly comes back with this. He's going to impact this while I try and hold it from rotating. And we'll see what happens. — Yeah, that sounded like it. — It was not centered. — Oh, yeah. Yeah, cuz look, it's sun on that side. — Yeah, it looks probably centered to the outside, but that is centered to the inside. What's funny is bearing is fine. — Oh, yeah. It's not even rough. — Mm-m. Obviously, we have to clean this up and get it ground down again. I could either a leave it like that or I have the actual sleeve that is supposed to go on the race for the bearing. Either or is fine. Thank god that didn't grenade the motor, but I could hear a new noise. I said it from the beginning. There's a new noise in the engine. Now that we have that off and we have a tool that works honestly more consistently for that and we need to work on this E shaft. It's making our lives unnecessarily difficult. — Final rotor. — Pretty okay. — I'm almost more sketched out that there's not more to this. What we'll do is look at this bearing in here because this had to take a hit. Not a single bit of copper. First of all, that's smooth as [ __ ] It shows you how much pressure is created in uh journal bearings because this bearing is fine. It can handle whatever 5,000 PSI plus. And this ball bearing is what got chewed up. Journal bearings are insanely efficient and uh hard to beat. So, we have all good bearings, all good surfaces, and that leaves us rotor 2, but really the final rotor countdown. Did we escape out of this situation almost completely unfazed? I think we did. Housing looked worse from the outside. You can actually see it right here. It came into the motor. It was brought in from the turbo's demise. And we don't know what all is in that center rotating assembly on the turbo, but we know it's in the engine now. So then the E shaft pops out. It is now haul ass clean this thing up. But we're going to do it pretty quick because there's nothing wrong. Welcome to the 17th time I've rebuilt this engine. Each time is better than the last. I promise you that. This time though, there are actually some really interesting small things that I feel more and more confident making better. One of those is how crooked my shaft is. So, from your guys' point of view, my shaft from about right here, all of this was off by 2 1/2 thousand. I heated up the E shaft, put these two into a squared up vise, used some stuff from Cossworth to make sure down to the hundth of thousandth, and then applied enough pressure to bend the E shaft in this area. It alleviated or added more stress of only about half that. So, it's half fixed. So, what I then did to get creative was I looked at the taper. And the taper kind of dictates how much this whole thing is going to bend. And that sounds weird, but when you think about it, if you

### [15:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGW5g_jmqCo&t=900s) Segment 4 (15:00 - 20:00)

imagine the taper right here, when you tighten this bolt, if this taper has less material on this side, as you tighten it, it's going to bend the whole assembly in a certain direction. So, I thought to myself, okay, well, it's not that I need to bend it a certain direction as much as I need to unbend it back to zero. So, I gently cleaned up a lot of the burrs on the side that need the e-shaft to bend that way. We're very fortunate that the engine didn't fail with a 2 and 1 half thous0th bend. But what is very interesting, as you saw in the disassembly, this metal, even though it's very hard, is not bearing material. I am blown away that the bearing on the other side of this didn't absolutely destroy this. This is why I bent the E-shaft is that this was centered, I guess, to this. I'm not sure how Dave did that or he centered it to itself, whatever the case may be. the E-shaft being shifted. It shifted the center of this. So, I was like, "Well, I could clean this up, but where's home? " And so, uh, I think I found home. It's still off by less than a thousandth. You saw that hole right there. And then another one right there. I JB welded it. And then this is less than a thousandth raised. So, I kind of brought it down so that way it's not just a chunk of JBL. It's got a whole surface to go to. The one thing I'm very long-term concerned about with this engine, it's just that every single one of these surfaces, the pitting from the electrolysis or whatever, that's slowly degrading the ability of the housing to stop the coolant leak. All of that said, pretty straightforward install today. I'm going to try something different. I'm going to put a lot of this, which is basically Hyamar, which I need more of, into this. I can use it as a little And I don't know how much I'm going to need, but we'll start at six. Oh no, there's air in the Oh no, this is a nightmare. What have I done? Yeah, there we are. My work is going to look so much better now. This is the mistake I made last time was I was trying different sealant. It said it was non-h hardening. Well, it made my life a lot harder. We're going back to just our standard RTV in perfect shape except for that. I've since glued that seal in. Almost forgot these. Let me take you. Getting to this point was very challenging and I'm thankful Joel stuck with me even though he was supposed to leave. So, I really appreciate that. But we're building the rest of this two rotor and then I'm going to do the flip solo and hopefully not mess up rotor one all by myself. as much as This build has been a hilarious [ __ ] show, even though the end result is absolutely clean. Apparently, I like building a motor without having every single stud go all the way into the

### [20:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGW5g_jmqCo&t=1200s) Segment 5 (20:00 - 25:00)

motor. I'm actually kind of confused what or why this is happening, but I refuse to disassemble the motor for this. I'm about to cry. Motor's in perfect shape. Very happy with how everything went together. I did something different on these studs. They're too short, so I backed them off about at least 38 of an inch. That gave me a flat landing spot right here for O-rings to then go underneath these big washers. So, the big washers are designed to crush an O-ring. I've tried backing it out this far. My theory is that, you know, those little spacers. I think I threw an extra spacer in there that is exactly a/2 in on the inside and I didn't test that. Everything else looking really good using the correct RTV on the legs. I'm going to get this bolt all the way through this engine one way or another. Little bit of lube. Yeah. Okay, that's 30 lbs right there. This is about the most solid version of this motor possible. I've said that probably every time. Um, but each time I do add something new, clean it up and throw it back in the car. We are going to be doing this oil pan much more methodical than in the past because I just need to make sure this thing does not leak. So, not only have I cleaned it up and actually I went to 220 grit to try and get these level, but I'm also going to make sure I purposely put the sealant on the inside of the legs right there, at least planning for each of those corners. So, that way it not only seals across the pan, but back inside of here. We're also going to be letting this whole thing cure a lot longer. So, I'm just going to be setting the oil pan on top of that, putting a couple bolts to the same height, not doing anything else with the motor after that. So, wouldn't really give it us the best opportunity for sealing. Now, I don't believe the oil pan was the problem. The [ __ ] that I put on this thing from before on the legs, I firmly believe that was it. So, we are going to set the oil pan on, put four bolts or so on there, and just let it sit for an hour. That way, this stuff starts to set up and have some vertical strength to it. And then we will torque it to spec after I didn't realize the box of wiring stuff would be this big. The 12 rotor isn't even this large because I split things up. But on this car, it pays to have it all on one so that way we have less firewall intrusions. And one of the reasons why I need this is so I know how to build the firewall plate. 180 bucks right there. This is the part for me where I go and do all the planning for this. I've saved you guys the headache and heartache and wiring montage and we've gotten to this point right here. This harness has ignition. It's got injection. It's got sensor ground sensor power. Two oxygen sensors. This side right here is 79 wires, which is no coincidence because the connector is 79 pins. We're going to have a total of about four connectors passing through, but no open air going through the firewall. If you were like me as a young boy and secretly like playing with Barbies, then you are going to love wiring because it's just petting and combing and French braiding and like just adoring all of this plastic. The knots in there are horrendous, but you can rip on its hair and it won't pull it out as easily. One of the things I've done is nestled deep in the very center of this thing is the crank angle sensor, which is the holy grail signal. And then I surrounded it with all the sensors. So these are all the sensor wires. Boost pressure, coolant temp, all that. Those are very, very low current signals. So they're kind of insulating it in a sense. This is going to be all of the power for all six of my coils. So what I've done is each one of these wires can handle typically about 5 amps. I've blown a 30 amp fuse at full tilt before. So 10, 20, 30, 40, 50. so we don't catch the wires or the connectors on fire. And then that splits into the six wires to each of the coils. These are actually just signal wires. These aren't a threat, but they're the ones that will tell each coil to pulse. So, I want to keep this orange as far away from the very center of this. So, they'll go all the way on the outside edge on one side. And I'm keeping the yellows near it so that way it just all splits off like this right from here. I was just telling Joel off camera, this is kind of impressive at how small the harness is turning. I thought it'd be much larger. The compactness of this is efficiency. We've

### [25:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGW5g_jmqCo&t=1500s) Segment 6 (25:00 - 30:00)

got oxygen sensor right here. We've got all of the ignition split up immediately. All of the injectors. And with Elliot's new manifold, we have three more injectors. So, there's nine injectors in here. And then this is all of the sensors that are in the back. So like oil temp, flex fuel, even an EGT sensor, which um is new is that we have the ability to have CAN bus in the engine bay. And then this is the E-gate. So it's going to run all the way down to the front of the motor by itself. And then this is of course the main stalk. This is going to ultimately split up, but I want to get this finished first cuz this is actually going to turn to like a broom. Now I have to make a manual decision on where and how long to make this. I love send cut send, but they don't do lathing type stuff. So, I checked out a couple different companies, and most of them won't make parts over a/2 in of thread, basically. So, I went to this company. Your product has exquisite finished surface to better protect it. Rob kindly reminds you to wear gloves. This piece is my first test of having an outside company machine something for me based on my drawing. And so, I'm extremely happy with this. It's made out of 4130, so it's chromali. It's heavy. And it's threaded 9/16 18. And I even designed it to not have the thread go all the way to the very end. So that way there's not stress risers, meaning that there's not places where it really wants to crack. I actually made this shorter by a washer's length. That way I have a little bit of adjustment, but I don't need much because we're in that range. And so this replaces the thing I made. I notched and treated and heated and did everything possible to make sure that I didn't die welding this to this. But look at that. That totally changed my uh bump steer. So, let's go over to the steering rack on the three rotor and test this. So, here's the environment. And you can see that's crazy how short the threads are on this compared to the diameter. That's a really good sign that it's tight. This has been a very enjoyable process. But last night I glued this on. It's completely sealed inside of here, but it just doesn't look like it. So, I added more here. That way, there's not oil sitting inside of that thing. Very happy with this. It does force it to kind of come out further. But, I started sealing out a lot of these. This is a new thing for me where we use these boots on these injectors. Now, one of them I purposely didn't glue. And that's what happens if you don't glue it. It just can pull apart there. So, it has to be sealed. In the future, I'm going to put this on to this, glue them together. You can still feed the wires in is the point. But the oil tends to come in from right there. There's a [ __ ] ton of glue in here cuz I just kept filling it up and it just kept sinking in. I was trying different techniques on gluing these boots onto these DT. I think I might not glue the boot on, but oil still gets in there. Kind of same thing here. If I glue this on, I can always pull this back. Now, I did use these preformed boots. I really like them because you can't [ __ ] them up as easily. You can make them look bad, but you can't [ __ ] them up. And so, like, for example, this is the oil pressure temp sensor. That's for like a six pin connector. There's one that I'm really happy with. There it is. The throttle body one. This one will be sitting probably up on the engine like this. And you can actuate this. And it's all sealed end to end. Every single joint is sealed. Before I introduce you guys to all these wires, I want to show you why these exist. And it's mostly because this connector has to connect into something. This is the core harness to the three rotor. That's where the fire is right there. But this was also the fuel text harness initially that I grafted in. And then I added in all the stuff for the R3. Then I added in the R5 and the PD16. On top of all of that, I started adding in all of the wheel speed sensors and ABS unit. And so it really complicated this phase after phase. But that's what happens when you iteratively build a harness. Oh [ __ ] this needs to be changed. Oh, this actually has to jump over to here. Oh, you know that's not an input. It won't work that way. This is the other end of this. So the firewall is here. And then this will connect into that connector there. And one of the interesting things I'm trying right now is this is 10 22 gauge wires. A 22 gauge wire can hold about 5 amps. It's be very short, so it can actually hold more. But that converts over to two 16 gauge wires that are shielded inside of this. This is the ignition power. And I know firsthand that if something weird's happening, you can blow a 30 amp fuse, but that's very rare. Um, but the fuse for this is 30 amps. So, this setup can hold 25 amps solid for like 14 ft. So, um, I feel pretty good about this and not much voltage reduction there. Super happy with where we're at. But I think I'm going to spend the weekend and get these two together. And then that's the beginning of the Patrick Star of wiring. That is a firewall. Rob made me the

### [30:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGW5g_jmqCo&t=1800s) Segment 7 (30:00 - 35:00)

plate. And that blocks off all of the exhaust. So obviously everybody talking about it on uh Pikees Peak. The entire engine harness. It'll actually sit in the car kind of like this there. This one right here is the ABS unit. So, that'll plug into there. And then also have wires to the front two tires and shock level sensors. And then this and this are the main power to the four fans as well as a water pump. So, pretty beefy stuff there. And then headlights, turn signals, running lights, actuators, pulsing signals for the water pump, and so on. And the fans. So, all of those plug now into here. So, everything passes through. There's no air passing through. And then these two will then connect into things that are sitting on the inside of the car for fuel pumps and all the rear tail lights. On top of that, there's going to be one over to the driver's side for all the interior stuff. Key on, turn signals, the dash, all of that will go over there. And then one more for the rear wheel speed sensors and rear ABS sensors. Those all connect in. All of this basically goes to either the R5 or the PD16 or the fuse box. So there are nine injectors. The first eight are all on one connector and then 9 through 16 are all on B. So I'm going to have eight of these go to one connector and one of them go to the next connector. So it's the stuff like that. It's all going to be split up right here and then inside of a knot. We got nine or 10 wire sets coming out of the back side of this as well. So, it's pure chaos, but also the most controlled uh I've ever done this. I wish my buddy Kevin was here to actually do this cuz I bit off way more than I could chew. This is a whole ass race car setup I'm doing really quick. So, I tricked Joel into filming this by saying, "Hey, there's the 12 rotor transmission. I fixed it. I got it all working. " And then roped him back in. This is the finished half of the main harness. All the front stuff, all the rear stuff. And so now becomes the tedious part where I have to take that wire, but there's 12 of those wires and then move this one to here. And like I was saying earlier with the injectors, this is honestly right here. If you were to shoot this harness or cut it and just nick these two wires or these two wires, the entire car would die. — Good to know. — The core of the car, I shouldn't have showed that to Joel. The core of the car is right there. That is actually the canvas from the R5 Heltech to the dash to the PD16. So if that was to get cut, R5 would run, but then I would have no dash and more importantly, I'd have no PD16, which would it would turn off. And then the other one is actually the ignition. So when you key on, it tells the PD to turn on as well as the key itself. So if the key gets split from the ECU, it's going to shut the ECU off. It's going to open the circuit. What I'm just going to do is say, okay, all of these wires go to the R5. PD16. Then the R5 gets broken down into five different connectors. I am very proud of this. This is my finest achievement yet. Let me just pull back the foreskin here. Wow. Raw. — Yeah, it's tight. This is planning to where that whole knot is super small. I even kind of went over, you know, except for like one right there where you can see the wires exposed. I got it down. Like I was rebraiding and braiding and rebraiding. And so this is longer because I'm going to glue the [ __ ] out of it. And that way we can really pull on these. These four go to the engine. Five of them go to the ECU. And then two of them go to the PD16. And then this is like the main grounds. Some ABS uh switches and stuff like that. I got a fuse box. What Joel got me [ __ ] up about was thinking, okay, well, I can do this and then the little bit of wire can be exposed. So it kind of looks like that like usual. But I did buy these a year ago, two years ago, and have not used them. Once you put them on there, they're pretty much stuck on there. So I don't want to put them on there yet because it makes it harder to get wires in and out of this. But it's not as much waterproof sealing as much as dustproof and pullproof sealing. Unfortunately, I didn't buy the boots for this cuz I wasn't planning to do this. So I'd have to use these heat shrink boots, which means I'd have to glue it. Point is that if I'm going to be representing Haltech and how good it can be, I might as well play the part. So, it's going to all come over like this. So, you can see these boots look all deformed, but they're not. They just they do that. They hook to whatever right, left, up, down, whichever way you want it. But it's a 90° boot. Here's the same thing with the bigger connectors. Now, Joel had this really big revelation. — Yeah. And it makes so much sense and I'm sure but Heltech's like come on guys is that the R5 has 1 2 3 4 five. R3 has one

### [35:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGW5g_jmqCo&t=2100s) Segment 8 (35:00 - 39:00)

two three — in case you guys were wondering where — in case yeah the name makes sense. So you get these extra small ones that have a [ __ ] ton of more functionality. Uh and for the most part except for like two or three pins these are identical on the R3 to R5. So you can step up if you wanted to. I'm going to build this one first because it's the furthest one away. And that'll tell me how short or how tight this whole thing's going to be. I don't think I'm going to do much strain relief on these. On some of them, I will the, you know, important ones, but for the most part, you shouldn't be yanking on this. And even if you do, I've already got all this booting [ __ ] all in here just to cover up the wires. So, I might as well use that to my advantage and save myself some time. This whole core harness is done. So, I I've put on this extra tip and I am sealing it. mostly because if there's a problem with this, it's not coming apart. The only uh regret I have with this harness so far is just that I didn't have DR25 this big. I only had this other 3M [ __ ] It just doesn't look the same. It obviously doesn't behave the same, but it's hidden under the car, so it doesn't really matter. This is in the car, not uh outside of it. I'm not going for 100% ceiling. I mean, whatever I can get. I'm definitely pumping a lot in there. So, I'm going to glue this lip and put these on. They're all 90°, so they're going to look a little weird cuz some of them are more straight, but they're still angled. So, I'm going to do this one first. And the hardest part is, honestly, with how close these two connectors are on each side, I might have to shave part right there down. But you can see the PD16 one, that boot, you know, there's no lip cuz I didn't have that kit. But at least that boot is on there to really protect it from anything falling on it. But I've mirrored how it looks in the three rotor on top of Herz's four rotor. So works out really well. But yeah, it's all everything's coming together. So we're going to go ahead and start. This tip is so much easier. It's good to have a small tip. Give it a kiss. This area is more about presentation than anything. So, I'm kind of hoping it can't see the glue. That's cool. — Yeah, that's it's trying to fight and turn. It's trying to turn 90° is exactly what's going on right now. And I'm telling it, no way. That's Yeah, the transformation is complete. Here is the ABS harness. This is the interface. Joel asked me about this. I don't want to talk about it. I couldn't find the right boot and so I had to slice this boot open to get it to fit around the thicker wires here. It's all sealed so it doesn't really matter. This is the uh like fans and this is all the lights and other small stuff. I purposely clocked the ABS one to sit up at this angle here so it gets out of the way of these connectors. I added the front ABS sensors. This is our second oxygen sensor and that's actually sitting over the engine. So when we need it, it's right there. The engine harness is right here. And that of course plugs into everything here. So what you see here, and it does look like a lot of wires in one sense, but it's not a lot in another sense. That's the entire front of the car wired. All sitting right here. Nothing else. That's 100% of it. And then this, of course, goes to the computer. So what we're going to do is unplug these and throw this in the car. Should hopefully, this is the first time of test fitting it. All the math seemed to add up. But that puts that quite literally right where I planned it to be. I am very pleased with this. We're going to see if this angle though pulls on the connectors. Now, I purposely put extra twists in all the wires because of how much strain this next move is going to naturally be. That one didn't click loud. Look at that. The lack of strain on this. Very pleased with this. While I have some stuff, you know, going back that way and over this way, the core of the car is done. That's it. Wait, wait, wait. Just kidding.

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*Источник: https://ekstraktznaniy.ru/video/44287*