# Viltrox NexusFocus F1: Auto Focus For Manual Lenses!

## Метаданные

- **Канал:** DSLR Video Shooter
- **YouTube:** https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVg8Dex7Zkw
- **Дата:** 02.04.2026
- **Длительность:** 16:23
- **Просмотры:** 37,190
- **Источник:** https://ekstraktznaniy.ru/video/46092

## Описание

Add auto focus to manual focus lenses with this lens adapter! The Viltrox NexusFocus F1 converts lenses from PL to E mount with tons of slick features. My Camera Gear: http://camerafoundry.com SmallRig 212W Battery: https://geni.us/smallrig-vb212 My Guides and LUTs: https://academy.dslrvideoshooter.com

GEAR MENTIONED:
Viltrox NexusFocus F1: https://geni.us/MvFVHS
CineBack for FX3 and FX30 V3: https://camerafoundry.com/products/cineback-fx3-fx30
Viltrox EPIC Anamorphic Lenses: https://geni.us/Znn7u6
Right Angle USB-C Cables: https://camerafoundry.com/products/usb-c-cable

VIDEO SECTIONS: 
00:00 - Viltrox NexusFocus F1 Auto Focus Adapter
01:10 - Whats in the Box and Parts Overview
02:49 - Updating the Adapter
03:09 - Power and Rigging
03:48 - Thoughts on Calibration
04:33 - Full Calibration Tutorial
11:29 - Using Vintage Lenses with the NexusFocus F1
13:41 - Focus Hunting Issue with SOME Lenses Sometimes…
14:57 - Complaint About Camera and Lens Mount Compatibility

The Viltrox NexusFocu

## Транскрипт

### Viltrox NexusFocus F1 Auto Focus Adapter []

This is a lens adapter that takes manual focus lenses and turns them into autofocus lenses for Sony cameras. And in this video, I'm going to talk about whether or not you should pick one of these ups, its limitations, but mainly just how absolutely blown away I am and loving being able to take anamorphic lenses or some of my vintage lenses and essentially have autofocus on my Sony cameras. And no, this isn't LAR. This is using your face detection. Actually, we're using it right now. Now, so if I put my hand in front of my face, this lens is an anamorphic full-frame Viltrox lens. And you can see it's focusing on me, hand, me, hand beautifully. And so that's what I'm so excited about in this video. I can't help but smile cuz I've always wanted to use my vintage lenses, but I've always struggled with having to mess with manual focus on those. And sometimes I just want to let the camera do its thing, and now we can. So, let's go ahead and dive in and first talk about what you get in the box. But first, a quick disclaimer. Builtros did send me this adapter free of charge that said they're not seeing this video before it goes up and they're not paying me for this video. That said, this video is supported by those of you who have purchased my camera gear like Cineback available at camerafoundry. com and the links in the description. In the box

### Whats in the Box and Parts Overview [1:10]

you're going to find a case that holds all of the parts that come with the Nexus Focus F1, including the lens adapter itself, two motors in this configuration, a USBC power module, a whole bunch of USBC cables, some tools, and extra gears. The adapter itself is only currently available with E-mount, but hopefully that changes in the near future. And it also only works with PL mount lenses. Again, I really hope they have an EF version for EF lenses or lenses we can adapt to EF. There's a jack on the side that connects to the motors, a screen to be able to see what's going on with your settings. The adapter also has a threaded mount, which is great for using lens support, but it also is compatible with Arca-Swiss, so you could use Arca-Swiss gear with this if you wanted to, which is pretty neat. The adapter kit comes in two configurations, a single motor or dual motor, and those are $600 and $900, respectively. And then on each motor, we have a 15 mm rod attachment point. And I love that you can add it to the rods without having to slide it all the way in the front. So you can drop the thumb screw and release the 15 millimeter clamp, which I love seeing. Uh, and it's really nice and compact. There is a button that you can press and hold to change from focus, iris, zoom, and then there's a little flap that reveals two USBC's that can be daisy chained in any orientation. While the cables work fine that come with it, I use the Camera Foundry cables because they're right angle and you can get really nice tidy cable runs, which I just love on rigs, keeping things nice and tight. So, those are available at camerafoundry. com if you're interested. Finally, there's a left and right switch to dictate where the motor is and which direction your lens is going to be spinning. We'll get to that when we get to setup. The first

### Updating the Adapter [2:49]

thing I'd recommend you do is get the firmware updated on this thing. And to do that, you have to remove the feet on the bottom of the adapter and supply power to the DFU port on the bottom. Then you can connect it to the Nexus Focus app, find the adapter, and update the firmware. And the same is true of the motors following the instructions which are linked to via a QR code in the box. But to get things up and running, I

### Power and Rigging [3:09]

installed an FX30 into our new Cineback for FX3 and FX30 version 3, which has a ton of different features I can't get into here. But the reason I'm using it is we have lots of USB power delivery outputs and 15 mm rods on this version. So popped two rods on the setup, installed the adapter, added lens support so we have a nice super solid platform to work off of. Then mounted the Viltrox epic Momento lenses and slapped on two motors. I connected the motors together with USBC right angle cables. Then one cable to the lens adapter and another cable from the motors to the Cineback power supply located on the opposite side. Then we

### Thoughts on Calibration [3:48]

got to the part that I was least looking forward to, which is programming the lens and getting it up and running. Now, I'm not going to lie, this wasn't easy for me, but because I've spent so much time with it, I can now show you very easily how to get lenses programmed. It was a little trial and error for me at first and I've never liked these kind of things where you have to calibrate stuff and mess with things. That's why I haven't used LAR focus systems is it just seemed too hairy and too messy. But believe it or not, this is really working for me. So if you're the type of person who doesn't like to mess with that stuff, uh, and you've been apprehensive about this system, I can say that I'm actually really happy with the end results and it isn't as nasty as you think. and it actually works really well when switching around to different lenses once you get it set up. So, now

### Full Calibration Tutorial [4:33]

let's get to the part where we actually go through and set things up. So, at this point, I'm going to flip the power switch on the side of Cineback and their two uh lights will turn on. And there's a button here you want to press and hold and make sure that the focus motor has the LED next to the F and the iris I. The last part of the setup is going to be these little left and right switches on each motor. This one I found to be fairly confusing, but the best way to describe it I've written in the instructions is if your focus ring goes to the right when you're going to infinity, you want the switch to be left. If your focus ring needs to turn to the left to go to infinity, your switch needs to be on the right when it comes to the focus motor. Uh, fairly confusing, but that's what I found to work best. Okay, so now we've got the motors turned on. And now I'm going to turn on the camera and that is adapter and that will begin kind of a focus calibration where it goes to the beginning and the end of each ring and finds the stops. With that done, we're ready to dive into the app. So, you first want to make sure you have everything updated in the system. So, find the firmware settings, update everything to the latest thing. Then, here on the main page, I'm going to go to my lens library. I'm going to add a lens. And you could go from the official library. I found it best just to do it yourself. Once you know what you're doing, it doesn't take that long and you won't run into frustrating issues of trying to make someone else's profile work. Okay, I'm going to hit start and choose our setup. I have the focus and iris in this configuration. So, I'm going to go dual motor one, which is actually two motors in that configuration. I'll hit next. This is saying, hey, make sure that everything is set up correctly. I've got that set up. I've got my switch, I think, in the right place. And now we can start to deal with our iris. You can see as I slide this on the actual lens there, our iris is moving. So, I'm going to go all the way to 22. Add scale. 22. Confirm. I'm going to go to the other end, and I'm going to add scale. And this is a T2 lens, so I'm going to hit two as well. And that's done. I'm You could go through and do, you know, every single stop. I'm not going to do that. On the next, we're going to do focus. So, I'm going to do the same thing all the way to the end. And this is the minimum focus. I'm going to add scale. And this is going to be 2 feet 7 in. Confirm. Go to the other end and add scale. This is infinity. So I'm going to try So I'm going to tap the infinity button there. Confirm. Next. And here we enter some info. So I'm going to go brand Viltrox series Mento. Focal range. This is a 35mm aperture range T2 to 22. You can't change from f-stops to T-tops, I don't think. And then the minimum focus I'm going to put in as 2T 7 in. Next, here's where things can get hairy. So, I started a screen recording on my external monitor so you can kind of see what's going on. We've got the focus chart there. And then we have this set of instructions, uh, letting us know what we need to do. So, you want to go in and make sure you turn off like subject focus. So, AF or face detection and eye detection is off. We want to go to center fix. And you'll notice I can't change it to autofocus, which is really frustrating because that's what we need. But don't worry, this will kind of get fixed when we turn the camera on and off, or at least the app should tell us to turn the camera on and off. So, we've got the focus chart. It's out of focus right now. What I'm going to do is hit start calibration, which doesn't feel correct cuz it's saying, "Hey, get that chart focused. " But I don't think we need to do that just yet. You'll see why. I'm going to hit start. And then it says at the top, please turn off the camera power. So, we're going to cut the camera power. Wait until the app says to turn it back on. There it goes. Now, I'll and it should switch to autofocus and focus on the chart once it does its little thing where it goes back and forth with the gears. It looks like it automatically has started the calibration. So, watch the curves at the bottom of the screen. Um, what we want to see is actually what we see now where there's a little squiggly at first and then it starts to make consistent focuses forward and back and you can see the actual footage here. It's going in and out of focus. And this is what you want to see. If you see this where you have these little hills and they're roughly going the same height, you're doing great. It's going to be okay. If things are wacky and stairstepping and just all over the place, most like it failed and you need to go back and try again or switch andor switch the switch on the side of the motor from left to right or right to left. All right, calibration complete. And just like that, we have the lens profile. Going to move this chart out of the way and move my microphone down here. And it looks like we are working. If I put my hand in that focus, there we go. We now have focus. Now, this is just center spot. I will go ahead and switch it to face and eye. And now we should be good to go. So, I can go ahead and block my face. It's going to focus on the hand. When we go back to me, goes back in focus. I see the motors, everything working really nicely. I'll grab my microphone. I'm going to move closer to the lens. Somewhere in there is probably minimum focus. Maybe a little closer. Then I can move back here. And it's just following me beautifully. So, that's focus right there. Now, there's one more thing we need to do. Currently, this is all still on the app. We want to transfer that profile to the actual lens adapter. So, we don't need to use any apps and we can just do it from the camera. Okay. So, now we are looking at the top of the lens adapter. You can see it currently says temporary lens. Meanwhile, back on the app, we're going to go ahead and move this stuff over to the adapter. I have an old test here. I'm going to go ahead and delete. You could just swipe those as needed. So, we're going to go back to this main screen here, and we are going to tap the right to adapter ring button on the bottom right. So, you'll need to create a group. This is what's going to be stored on the lens. Go ahead and call it whatever. I've got one here called test group. So, I'm going to go in there. Then, we need to add the lens we just created. So, tap the orange add lens. There's the lens we created. I'm going to select it. Hit finish. Now, I'm going to hit export to ring. It's going to load and give us a little confirmation notice. Export result is green check and a bunch of stuff I can't read. I'm going to hit okay. And at this point, if we look on the adapter here, we're going to go ahead and turn the camera off and let it fully shut down here. Then back on. And you'll see here it now shows the lens that we had before, but we're still connected on the app. So, I'm actually going to disconnect the app and I'm going to show you how to navigate on this display. So, there's two buttons on the adapter itself. There's an up button and a down button. As we tap those, you can see we go between the lens and what says lens groups. If you short press it, just goes back and forth. If you long press the up button, it'll go into whatever's on the screen, like an enter. And if you go long press down button, it'll go back out of whatever you're in. So, let's go to lens group. I'm going to press and hold for a second and let go. Now, we're in our lens groups. And you can see I have several here, different brands, and I'm going to go over to Viltrox. I'm going to press and hold long. And then Momento is the lens series. I'm going to press and hold on that. Let go. And now we have a couple options. So, I'm going to choose the 35mm F2. And that's the one we just programmed and uploaded to the actual adapter. I press and hold that and now the screen will go from black when I let go to white. That means we've selected this lens and currently the adapter is using that profile. That was my greatest fear with this setup is having all kinds of hairy issues and having to constantly recalibrate and all that stuff. But I'm so happy to say it's just worked so far.

### Using Vintage Lenses with the NexusFocus F1 [11:29]

And what's so cool about this is we can do this process with vintage lenses. So, here's some footage of a Helios 442 that I filmed with my daughter, and it was so fun to be able to go out and shoot and not worry about focus, especially on some of these vintage lenses that are really hairy when it comes to the mechanics and you're just fussing around and it just can be a really hard experience. I love the image, but it's difficult to get focus right. So, it's really enjoyable to have the focus that I know and love from my autofocus lenses on Sony cameras, but to be able to have that with vintage lenses. So, an amazing option. As long as you can adapt that lens to PL, then you're able to add focus rings to it. And as long as that's sturdy enough on your setup, you should be able to use it without any issues. And as you can see from the footage here, focus worked really, really well. I forgot to change it from the snappiest settings in my FX30, so it's a little too snappy for me, but you could dial those back and have a lot smoother of a focus experience. One gotcha with this is going to be the lens mounts available. So, obviously, we can only use E-mount at the time of this recording, but you need to make sure your lenses have a PL mount. I would love to see the same adapter, but with an EF. That would give us a lot of flexibility. Uh, but I also get that a lot of people are probably looking for a cinema option like PL. So, you're kind of limited to what lenses you can adapt to PL. Fortunately, a lot of lenses, especially vintage, can be adapted. So, here I have a Helios 442. There's a bunch of different options online, or you can hop on eBay and get a bunch of different older lenses with a PL mount. Of course, Viltrox's lenses work flawlessly and just I love how smooth it is here with uh this particular lens, which is a 35mm T2. Uh so those work great. There's a ton of other options like the Nissi lenses that I've talked about in the past. So, as long as you have a PL lens and it has gears on it or you can add gears to it, you're good to go. So, now let's get to things I didn't like. First and foremost, getting things set up at first was really tricky to figure out the app. the instructions looked a little outdated or at least what I was seeing in the screenshots looked completely different in the app. Hence me creating this little instructional video for myself. And again, I'll have steps down below. And

### Focus Hunting Issue with SOME Lenses Sometimes… [13:41]

then the other issue I had was mainly with my Helios lens or some of these vintage lenses. And that was once I got things programmed in, when I'm just sitting here doing this kind of stuff, it worked fine. Just focusing, you know, within 6 ft of each point. That was okay. But then when I wanted to go from a subject to infinity, um the camera or the lens would or the motors really would start to just do this hunting thing and it would take forever for them to finally lock in on focus. And then if I moved again to a closer subject, it would do the same thing and then slowly lock in again. And I'll have footage of this that you can see. But once it locked in, if I just started walking around toward the subject, it was fine. and it could very seamlessly catch focus and transition there. The problem was whenever I would again go from near focus to really far. So if there are big focus jumps with some vintage lenses, that might be a problem. But then I found that the next day that problem seemed to be gone. So a little bit of inconsistency there. But overall, if you're going to be pointing at a subject and moving around them and you're not going to focus from a rock in the foreground to a blue sky in the distance, you probably are going to be fine with autofocus on this setup. And

### Complaint About Camera and Lens Mount Compatibility [14:57]

then the only other thing I don't like about the setup is just that I have to use it with PL lenses and on Sony E-mount cameras. I would love to see more cameras supported. I don't know if that's a limitation with Sony just being awesome and letting this whole system work. I don't know how it exactly works. So maybe Canon's kind of locked down there. I'm not sure. That might not be Viltrox's fault. But I would love to see an EF version where instead of having only PL lenses, I could use EF to E-mount lenses. And that would open things up to basically just about any single lens out there. Otherwise, for the price, which I'll put on screen, depending on how many motors you go with, is bananas good and really, really impressive. And then of course there's the whole feature of being able to have a remote focus on your phone. So you don't have to use autofocus. You can just use the actual app to change your focus and change your iris. Oh, and that brings me to Iris 2. Once you have the iris motor locked in and set up, you can use the iris ring or dial on your camera and it will go ahead and change your iris for you and show the values on screen, which is so cool. uh if you're going to be operating the camera, you know, and letting autofocus do its thing. If you want to learn more, check out the information in the description. If you want to support the channel, check out Cineback for the FX3 and FX30 version 3 available at Camera Foundry. Thank you guys so much for watching. Hope you have a wonderful rest of your day and we will see you in the next