# Ed Webster, story of the FFA of Women in Love (Cathedral Ledge) ## Метаданные - **Канал:** Brandon Archibald - **YouTube:** https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JS0Mj5V40x0 - **Дата:** 19.10.2017 - **Длительность:** 9:06 - **Просмотры:** 1,408 ## Содержание ### [0:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JS0Mj5V40x0) Segment 1 (00:00 - 05:00) so I thought I would tell the story about the first set of women in love on Cathedral edge very iconic route free-climb person 8 climb done by Joe Cody in and John Porter how did women love got named that's a good question so on the last pitch after he climbing up she went a half inches of nailing in climbing with me towards Cody in the Porter encountered a blank wall the head wall at the top of the climb and their drill bits broke and so they had no way to put one or two expansion bolts in so they'd yell down to their wives go to EMS buy some extra drill bits and bring them to the top of the cliff rescue John so they're able to I was climbing Cathedral one day Brian Delaney Brian had somehow got it in his head to try to free climb the first pitch of women and love and he did it and no one else could follow him so then I gave it a try I went to the crux of this really pertains to within finger crack one finger jam and a one finger pull up almost and then a total one to a birch tree if the words drink was about to happen diameter like a jug basically lunging for this tree and it was you know hard 511 and now the tree is not there anymore it gave out its life the trees not there my people still forget the root free must be if I below right now Brian well then here's why one day I decided to rappel down off the top of the cliff take photos a friend of mine named Casey Newman was climbing was trying to free climb you know the integral little a cup the women in Louisville Cassell lemony if I rappel down while I was rappelling down i looked at the blank head wall where the two bolts are I noticed that there were actually some edge there and I thought wow the entire original group might go free and so literally just by total happenstance and about a week later two young totally hot climbers named Mark Hugh Don and Max Jones show up at the cliff and Mark you done grew up in Manchester New Hampshire his partner max is from California but they were actually the first two climbers who tried to free climb was all a wall well you know made a major milestone that later was frequent and so these guys were really good climbers they were totally on top of their climbing they were doing 512 leads which was unheard of at that time and so I'm talking with him one day and just casually says to me out of the blue okay ### [5:00](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JS0Mj5V40x0&t=300s) Segment 2 (05:00 - 09:00) says mark well it is later I enlisted Henry barber to try to free climb the past so Henry and I we do the first part we get up to the hang in play and we start working out final rope length really steep you know vertical blank head walls like they've been overhanging and I almost hit the moves but I couldn't quite pull it off I kind of chickened out but I figured out the crux it came down and then Henry led it and he even dislocated his shoulder on the last move of the route and still somehow pulled it off and finished the first free ascent okay so while that's going on all of a sudden we see the car pull up on the road below the cliff and I see these two young guys get up these two guys get out and okay mark you Don is a little bit short of stature and I noticed one is tall who one is shorter and I see the shorter one start jumping up and down and screaming and I realized my god it's mark you Don Mac stones oh no and then they immediately grab their women and disappear and I'm thinking they're gonna come up here oh my god they're gonna and suddenly like 15 or 20 minutes later mark you Don is racing up the second pitch of women in love as fast as you possibly can climb I mean they I don't know if they did the first pitch but anyway they caught up to us and Mark is screaming at me he's looking up at me and he's screaming at me Webster I'm gonna kill you I am gonna kill you because I had totally it was maybe the first time and I never lied to another climber on purpose but I really I just kind of felt possessive I guess about this last bit was love and so I thought to myself oh my god Henry had just done the first free ascent so I knew the route went and all the moves went free and now I had to do it I was my hands were just toasted from trying to work out the pose and I'm up there at the belay shaking out going mom I'm gone I got a really pull it together I gotta do the moves I gotta do it clean I've got to follow Henry and I gotta do it before Mark gets here and he's screaming at me still and he's climbing up towards me getting closer and closer alright five it's not rated 5 12-4 frightful of ARP and it was the first to the top Henry and I are celebrating we've just done the first reset totally iconic root women in love my Cathedral ledge the first 5:12 on the clip and 15 minutes later mark Hugh Don and Max Jones at the second free ascent and I don't really remember what works it to be the next time we met but I'm sure he mentioned women in life anyway I'd love to meet mark here I haven't seen him a long time would it be great to meet you again reminisce about our --- *Источник: https://ekstraktznaniy.ru/video/46183*