# Killer Kicks: The Secret in Your Sneakers | BBC Stories

## Метаданные

- **Канал:** BBC Stories
- **YouTube:** https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mOzn-4Lzhu4
- **Дата:** 17.07.2020
- **Длительность:** 21:23
- **Просмотры:** 48,554
- **Источник:** https://ekstraktznaniy.ru/video/52433

## Описание

The sneaker industry has tripled in the last 10 years, now accounting for almost half of global footwear sales. They are a fashion phenomenon.

 Lynnie, 26, owns 80 pairs and still wants more. She travels to New York, the birthplace of the sneaker scene, and charts its rise from the footwear of basketball players, breakdancers and rappers to the defining fashion item of our age and an asset class unto itself, with its own stock exchange (StockX) and collectors parting with up to $500k for a single pair. 

How did it happen? 

And how can the planet possibly keep up? 

Every pair of sneakers produced emits the same amount of C02 as a 10 mile drive - and the industry is pumping out over a billion pairs a year. She wants to know why she - and we - can’t stop buying them.

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## Транскрипт

### <Untitled Chapter 1> []

a lot of people don't get this opportunity but you guys came a long ways we did indeed you guys crossed the pond so i got to let you yeah psych yourself up and i'll let you go inside the million dollar showcase okay i'm ready i'll let you ladies first i'll let you go oh you're too kind holy nuts nuts this is like the closest well i'll ever get to holding i'll feel you getting 30 000 in my hands wow it smells of fresh leather it smells like christmas you know there's something about jordan ones when they're fresh out the box yeah i will sniff them like no other like it's the best man in the world you know i can relate to that oh the spike leaves oh my lord i didn't see him yeah look at that classic absolute classic welcome welcome this beautiful bad boy is the nike back to the future if you want to buy it it's a hundred grand okay and uh if you're a size 12 it's 110 grand

### My First Love for Sneakers [1:18]

my first love for sneakers i guess about when i was i think i was 10. it was my birthday got some friends over got some money and um pretty much i went to jd sports that next day i really like popping colors and aesthetically giving me that old school buzz my uncle he had a crazy range of sneakers and i was like man one day i need all of those one day i just need all these old school classics okay so we're pretty much in the hallway right and like i said extra shoes extra pairs of shoes more shoes about 30 40 grand worth of kicks i am i need some help i do if i was on a train and i saw someone by the window and they had gold night glazers i knew they were cool i punched a cop in the face to be stepping on my you know it's ingrained in it these things are made to bring uncalculable joy if you're in new york city you ain't got to prepare these you're not walking the right way just being in new york is mind-blowing i'm excited it's christmas for me right now it's christmas i've come to the birthplace of sneaker culture to find out how they become such a phenomenon the sneaker industry has tripled in the last 10 years it's now almost half of global footwear sales i own about 80 pairs myself and i'm not gonna lie i still want more but why 2019 and in 2020 we're living in the greatest era of sneaker culture period there's a huge sneaker community out there and it's global in 1991 new york legends dj babito garcia wrote confessions of a sneaker addict considered the first major piece of sneaker journalism so let me break it down like this there's two pockets of why shoes are cool on one side they're really functional they're comfortable to wear they look cool they're an extension of your individuality you can become creative with them you can paint them you can customize them you can own them right so that's one pocket the other pocket is that sneakers in and of themselves have been placed in the same way that people approach art you got auction houses doing sneaker exhibitions selling shoes that are like highly collectible in the same way that one sells art we grew up with rules of originality

### Rules of Originality [4:25]

so the phrase was no biting what does that mean so that means don't talk like me don't dress like me don't say what i say don't dance the way i dance don't do anything like me everything was about self-expression and originality for example if i'm coming to your house and we're going out i show up with a pair of blue and white suede pumas on you open the door i'm like hey what's good yeah and you having blue and white suede pumas you got to change either change the laces paint the stripes you know do something to the midsole that's what we live by this sort of like uh disposition of wanting to be unique is something that was very prevalent in new york in multiple communities in multiple cultures we are the people who put nike on the map because everyone was wearing converse and pro kids we were the ones were like hey let's take a chance on this new brand you know and by the 80s there were like the six brands nike reebok puma uh pro keds um adidas uh pony you know converse by the late 80s 90s there was a shift in that people started really being fed marketing and advertising and buying into that and allowing that to determine what they want to wear one of the first shoes to go big was the

### The Nike Air Force One [5:53]

nike air force one which came out in 1982 the shoe that really changed the game came through three years later when nike teamed up with basketball legend michael jordan the air jordan 1 came out in 1985 and netted 70 million dollars in a month then there was run dmc at their famous madison square garden gig thousands of fans waved their adidas kicks in the air after that the group got a million dollar deal from adidas brands realized the power of teaming up with a celebrity especially if you combine that with creating a unique design in a limited edition quantity people started to see sneakers as real collectibles there were even riots over big releases and worse raps influence grew with jay-z and 50 cent signing deals with reebok and wu-tang linking up with fila kanye west has taken this one step further with his creation of yeezys it's now a billion dollar sneaker empire for some people owning a rare pair has become the ultimate status symbol i guess sneaker culture like you see right now they're repeating sneakers i feel like personally i'm getting duped why because dude you don't bought all these same sneakers three four five times already not only for yourself for your little brothers for your son how many times can you keep right buying the same thing you know what i mean so it's your first time in new york an absolute dream come true um it's just amazing i love it so much yeah and new yorkers they like their sneakers the numbers are just astronomical adidas actually publishes their figures and last year they produced 409 million pairs of sneakers that's i think it was about a 60 increase since 2013. wow i did not know that they are cranking out lots of shoes in 1984 the sneak industry was already worth about two billion dollars by 2000 that had shot up to almost 14 billion dollars and in the last 10 years it's just exploded sneakers have taken over the world the only thing that's really taken off is collecting i mean serious collecting sneaker brands are smart and they know how to keep you buying more and more shoes by putting out limited edition releases they create a crazy demand a limited drop is likely to cost more than a regular colorway right out of the gate but things get really crazy in the resale market resellers will both buy limited sneakers and sell them on at a much higher price they can end up costing thousands more than a regular version of the same shoe reselling has got so big the market is worth about six billion dollars and it's predicted to hit as much as 17 billion dollars in the next three years there's a lot of money to be made as sort of the industry evolved over the years they weren't thinking as much it seems about like well what's gonna happen down the line yeah you know eventually you know all the sneakers have to go somewhere where is it gonna go mostly right now it's gonna go to landfills uh we can't really do a lot with it we can't really recycle a lot of sneakers it's one of those things that you know companies are working on now adidas being the big example according to nike the average carbon footprint of their products is over seven kilograms about the same as a ten mile drive so what does that mean for the planet well it would take one tree nearly two years to remove the carbon dioxide from one pair of shoes with over a billion sneakers sold every year that tree would need two billion years to offset their emissions in my era to have two or three sneakers was like you know my parents thought i was crazy to have three pairs of sneakers but i didn't have money to buy a lot of pair of sneakers so you know we the care that we took to our shoes was again unprecedented when i started painting my sneakers it wasn't just for aesthetics it was to elongate the potential use of the shoe all of a sudden three months in i basically just bought myself three more months of longevity with my shoes just by painting them i was born in 94 so you know understanding and learning about the sneaker culture back in the 70s and the 80s and the 90s it just gave me goosebumps because it was like wow like there was a lot of effort a lot of love a lot of heart and soul put into it you know rolling around with a toothbrush and making sure that every night you've got to clean your shoes and like it's crazy you know it just shows that there was a genuine love for that and i don't sense that anymore i want to say that the hype is always good because it obviously brings more attention and things like that but the love for the sneaker world is kind of lost for sure i don't care where the sneakers are if i heard that they're out there i'ma find that i will not rest if i got to go on the internet and some like that it's no fun for me i'd rather fly there how do things change so much i think there's a blurred line between what gets attributed to sneakers and what gets called hype culture for the sake of camping out to get something that's a deeper rooted issue for people who are willing to do that okay i've had over 4 000 sneakers in this lifetime i've never camped out for one stop it not one hey hi how you sneaker glorified look how protected they are i know we've got to protect them these are pretty amazing i would happily starve in it sneakers for me yeah but then when you were wearing them you wouldn't look so good that's true you got a point there what do you think about limited editions i think they're pretty ridiculous it seems to me that it's a way of hyping it up and kind of creates it's sort of a way of stimulating desire isn't it it's making you buy it because you're worried you've got that you know you're getting up in the morning because you're worried that you're not going to be able to get them we'll call it foreign trainer i have that sometimes they're nagging away in your stomach because you think oh my god if i don't buy these now i'm never going to have them yeah i really need to buy them now and that's just artificially created by them saying right we're only going to produce i don't know like whatever number they produce yeah whereas they could quite easily just you know produce as many as people want and they could keep producing it i'm guessing that you've got more than one pair of trainers yeah yeah so and so you've got more than you've got more than one pair you're probably buying multiple pair and you know new pairs before the old pair is worn out so wow so the question you sort of start asking yourself is and i'm getting as guilty as this as anybody i've got you know i've got a mountain of these things yeah yeah but you say to yourself do i really need to keep writing them i feel like loki i'm kind of moving towards the i don't need them right i know that for a fact all right i don't want to look at somebody else's shoes and think man i had the opportunity to get him and now that's how they're getting used to get them right that's like the limited edition thing is this only a business is it only a business business but it's about selling shoes but there's passion in that isn't there there's passion in creating there's passion and design and there's passion in buying it's like anything isn't it i mean it's like the fashion industry it's about have it's about creativity it's about design it's about innovation it's about new technology it's about sports it's about performance but ultimately it's about selling shoes i've spent about 30 to 40 000 pounds on sneakers was that money well spent i don't know it was my choice maybe if i hadn't spent it on loads of sneakers i could have got a car brought a flat but this isn't just about me over a billion pairs of sneakers are produced every year and you can't produce that much of anything without having an impact on the planet especially something which has as much plastic in it as sneakers do so i am in germany today heading to the adidas headquarters i am so excited so i want to find out more i just want to show you a couple things yes um you know from the past and sort of what we're doing these days this year we've got the introduction of this new fabric we call prime blues so that uses part of the ocean plastic and we'll use uh twice as much ocean plastic this year that we used wow this was the first prototype that we actually developed for lube and almost 100 of all shoes in the sports industry are glued yeah the upper's glued to the bottom and glue is basically poison for recycling it's a contaminant so the real innovation here is that the upper and the boost bottom are fused they're all made out of one material every single piece on here is the same type of plastic this tpu these shoes are 100 recyclable the loop is a fully recyclable shoe but it's only one shoe why aren't adidas making all their sneakers like this you only can do it if you can manage to do it without losing your business if uh if everybody just stopped buying product that doesn't work because the definition of sustainability is that it works for the environment people and it works for the economy just had a great chat with james it really made me look into you know myself as far as a consumer and how i can help the environment and going back to london is going to make me think you know more about my choices nike reebok and puma are all bringing out sustainable shoes too but the truth is they're just a tiny slice of the multi-billion dollar sneaker market i decided to go see if maybe recycling our shoes could help we use the idea of trying to shred the shoes into bits and pieces which i'm going to ask you to do with your sneakers in a minute and basically no way what we do is we put the whole shoes into some sort of a shredder or in this case granulated and what will happen it will convert it to small particles and we put it through a number of processes which i'll show you in a minute to be able to separate it to individual material then we can use those material to make more shoes or other things so these experiments these were sneakers these were all the sneakers one day it makes me so sad but think about it this way this is much better than actually send them into a landfill because then there were no use out of this material this way at this we can separate it okay that's fair i'm so sorry unfortunately sneaker recycling isn't possible for most people yet the technology just isn't advanced enough so in the short term until our processes significantly improve in terms of how we make things and how we recycle it the concept of consuming less and using our product for longest in terms of environmental benefit is got the biggest potential okay so i should basically buy less until technology hasn't proven um i've given you all the information the decision about buying less stuff i mean for me i'd like to get your take because for example how many shoes do you have i have two pairs of trainers one is for indoor activities one for outdoor activities i'm sorry it's just weird to come to hear that you know two shoes and yeah two shoes maybe the secret is returning to the roots of the scene owning fewer shoes treasuring them more so i am literally just outside of lee this is my first time it is freezing but i'm meeting a young man named keelan and he's very much into his customization and restoration and he has a really good point when it comes to talking about the environment so i'm looking forward to it hi nice to meet you yeah linny thank you so much i literally got into trainers just from watching football and the process of obviously going to the football is wearing nice shoes all just started off from friends i just started cleaning shoes and re-dyeing them and then it's all moved to like this fully customizational work um and this is where it's at the moment like there's not many people really sending old shoes to me um but when they do i tend to want to revamp them fully so i'll add new tongue tabs to them like that add text to them to text off i mainly got into it just because when i was younger i remember my dad buying brand new shoes and just been in the shoes constantly he'd wear a pair for a few months to get ruined at football and then he'd just go and beat him he was ruining shoes like these are getting re-dyed so these are going to get a custom color created to be the actual color there was and all this bottom bit will get repainted and things like that what was your reason actually for wanting to bring more longevity into the reason for it is mainly just because i always want to keep my trainers in a good state if i'm buying a 90-pound shoe i want to keep it good whereas some people don't have the same brain as me to want to keep shoes into a decent state so once they're battered they just send them straight to the bin or to a landfill and i think if i can restore nine pairs of shoes here in my house and that's now my shoes i have to go to a landfill and obviously be wasted because obviously with the toxins what's in the shoe and the glue obviously it goes straight into the soil um the rubber don't degrade if everyone could just think for a minute before they're thinking right let's bin these shoes i mean i'm not saying come to my business but obviously if you can bring your shoes to me and i can restore them nuts yeah one last pair to go in one phil and i'm happy with that keelan is just one of so many customizers and refurbishers who are started up in recent years it's interesting because they seem closer to the way things were back in the day with making your sneakers last i love the idea of it you know just having a few pairs that matter and customizing them to keep them in shape rather than buying new ones constantly do i need all the sneakers i have probably not you