The Art and Science of Wine Tasting | Qian Janice Wang | TED

So I would like everyone to close their eyes, just for a second, and imagine that you're holding a glass of wine. And really imagine that experience. Take the wine, swirl the wine, smell it, and take a sip. Now imagine that someone next to you leans over and says, "Mm, that was a really complex wine. " OK, what did they mean by that? What exactly does complexity mean? It's a term that we use a lot in the world of wine. Wine critics use it, right? When I write a tasting note, I sometimes use complexity. But I will tell you an industry secret. If you ask 10 different people, "What does complexity mean," you might get 10 different answers. So today I want to explore this idea of complexity to show that actually, when it comes to smell and taste, we can get a lot of complex cognitive ideas that usually are reserved for the realm of art. So a very small art history introduction first, and then we'll get to the good stuff, which is the wine. So in psychology, we often see this curve, this Berlyne curve, that explains the relationship between complexity and liking. And the idea here is that it's an upside-down U curve, so if something is too simple, people don't like it. On the other hand, if something is too complex, people also don't like it. So there's a sweet spot in the middle, like an ideal complexity. I made some audio clips to demonstrate this idea. So here's a simple one. (Music note) So maybe if you're into very modern music, you might think that was really good. Otherwise you might find that a bit boring. So here's another one with a little bit more complexity. (Musical tune) These are my original compositions, by the way. And here's a third example where there's a lot of complexity. (Musical tune) So how many people like that one? OK, we have a few in the audience. Very nice, very nice. But I wanted to demonstrate the point, right? When you have too much complexity, often people don't like it. But is that true in the world of wine? I chose one quote from a famous wine critic, Matt Kramer, and let's see what he said about complexity. "The greatest standard used in assessing the quality of wine is complexity. The more times you can return to a glass of wine and find something different, either the bouquet or the taste, the more complex the wine. The greatest wines are not so much overpowering as they are seemingly limitless. " So this is a very beautiful quote, right? Very artistic. And you start thinking, OK, so what exactly is complexity? I work as a researcher, I'm a scientist. In my work, I need to try to define what one critic says, right? This is a very vague idea. So how do I exactly go in and investigate this concept? And the approach I took, I will demonstrate a little bit today. There are actually two ways of thinking about complexity when it comes to wine or food. There's, first, chemical complexity, right? That's the stuff that's in the glass. What are the chemical molecules in the wine? And then there's a concept called psychological complexity, where complexity is not really in the wine, but it's in the mind of the drinker. And I will show two different studies. The first one: we investigate the idea of chemical complexity -- it's complexity in the glass. And in the second study, we'll look at psychological complexity. It's complexity in the mind of the drinker. So let's look at the first one. This was a study I conducted at the University of Oxford some years ago. And the idea was, OK, if I have two wines and I make a 50/50 blend, surely the blend should chemically be more complex, right, than the individuals. So here we took three wines, single grape variety from the same producer, and then I made 50/50 blends of these three wines for a total of six. It looks something like this. When someone came to the lab to do the study, they were presented with six wines. They were not told which one was which, right? We didn't tell them at all about which are blends, which are single variety. They were just told, here are six red wines, I would like you to taste them. And people made some ratings. For example, they had to guess whether the wine was a blend or not. They had to name the flavours

and then they evaluated the wine based on things like liking, familiarity, complexity, flavour, intensity, quality and willingness to pay. So I want you all to just take a moment and think. Do you think that people could actually tell, in a blind tasting, which were blends and which were single varieties? So maybe hands up, how many people think yes, they can tell the difference? OK, maybe one or two or three. Most people think no. So I'm going to tell you something that was a very surprising finding. Because I had around 80 people in this study, there were some people who knew nothing about wine, they just worked in the department and they wanted to come for free wine. And we had some other people who had different wine certifications. I was running the Oxford Blind Tasting Society, so I kind of also got people in society to come do the study. So the surprising finding was, if you looked at everybody overall, people couldn't tell blends from single varieties. But the fun thing was that actually it was the beginners, the people who didn't know that much about wine, who actually could guess blends or not higher than chance. Very surprising. It was the beginners who did better. I don't know why, but that was one of the surprising findings. Another finding we found was that the blends were not rated as more complex than the single varieties. This was maybe also a little bit surprising. What it showed is that chemical complexity in the glass does not necessarily equal perceived complexity when people are rating the wine. A final surprising finding from this study was that there was actually one thing that could explain people's complexity rating. It wasn't whether it was a blend or not. It was how much oak they could taste in the wine. So people who wrote things like vanilla or spice or cinnamon, writing those words in the flavor was actually predictive of higher complexity and also more willingness to pay. So at the end of the story, it seems like chemical complexity doesn't really equal perceived complexity, but if you put your wine in oak, people are going to think it’s more complex, and they might like it more. So that was the first study. For the second one, I'm going to go back to this idea of psychological complexity. So, you know, it's beauty in the eye of the beholder. Or is complexity in the mouth, I guess, of the taster? And here, I wanted to introduce a different concept, which is this idea of time. Complexity, when you're tasting something, there can be two different ways of defining it. You can have static complexity. This is at any moment in time, you know, how many different flavors do you perceive? Or there's an idea of dynamic complexity, which is, imagine, go back to your imagination. You're tasting the wine in your mind. If you pay attention to how the wine is evolving in the mouth over time, you can actually follow how it changes. So I also made some audio clips to demonstrate this idea. The first one is a static complexity. (Music note) So standard major triad, nothing complex. And -- it's complex. The second one is dynamic complexity. (Musical tune) So when I run these studies, I use music a lot as a way to demonstrate these concepts because everyone knows that music is something that evolves over time, right? So you can listen to a change and the same thing can be applied to flavor. So for this study, I really needed to find some wines that are very complex. Because we're in Portugal, but also because I love Madeira, it's my favorite fortified wine, we ran a study with Madeira wines at different aging points, because it's a well-known fact, at least in the wine world, that the older the wine, the older the Madeira, specifically, the more complex it gets. This is what everyone in the wine trade believes, but we wanted to see if this is actually true. So for this study, I worked with Justino’s Winery, and we had Madeira samples that are three, 10 or 20 years old, aged in barrel. Again, the study looked something like this. People got six glasses, and you might think, OK, these glasses look different from the other study. Why are they black? So the reason why they're black is, if anyone has had Madeira or port before, I'm in Portugal after all. As the wine ages, the color will change. So if we used clear glasses here, people could just notice by the color how old the wine might be. So to eliminate that factor, we used black glasses here.

You can also see that they have randomized three-digit numbers. So we really made this study where people had no idea exactly what they were tasting. They were told it was Madeira tasting. And for the study, we had both novices and experts. This time I had about 70 novices and 30 experts come do the study, so I could also compare between them. Now, the first thing they had to do is just taste the wine and rate how complex they think the wine is. On a simple scale, one to nine, how complex they think this wine is. And the results were quite interesting. So on this graph, I tried to make it simple. On the horizontal axis, we have the three different aging groups. So three years, 10 years, 20 years. The green line represents the novice -- the people who don’t know that much about wine. You can see that there's a slight upwards curve, right? So people kind of think as the wine gets older, it gets more complex. Actually, this is not statistically significant. But if you look at the... [experts] in the orange line, right, the curve is much more steep. And here we can actually see that for experts, in a blind tasting, with black glasses where they couldn't see the color, they actually do consistently rate older wines as more complex. So in other words, there is something to this idea that as the wine ages, it gets more complex, as we can see here. The second thing that we asked people to do, and this will take maybe a little bit more explanation, is that we asked them to do a test that we call TCATA, temporal check all that apply. What happened was that as people were tasting the wine, they had eight different descriptors -- that sounds like a crazy video game -- that they had to check for every descriptor they were perceiving at any moment in time. So imagine holding the wine in your mouth for 30 seconds. For each second, you had to tick all the descriptors like, do I taste caramel now? Do I taste orange zest now? So it was a constant ticking action. And the reason why we did this kind of crazy game is to really measure, as you're holding the wine in your mouth, how do the flavours change over time? And also people spit the wine out at some point, but we kept on measuring the aftertaste. So we had this measurement of both the in-mouth sensation and also what happened afterwards. And the reason why I'm explaining is because I'm going to show a crazy video trying to demonstrate what happened with the wines. So let me just talk you through it really quickly. What you're about to see is the temporal trajectory of how the wines change in the mouth over time. The simple way to interpret this graph is if you’re closer to, for example, orange zest in the middle, the closer the line gets to orange zest, the more you taste orange zest. The closer the line gets to bitter, the more you taste bitter. I'm going to illustrate the trajectory of three different wines. Tinta Negra is the grape variety, and they’re aged three, 10 and 20 years. Basically, the darker the line, the more aged it gets. So I'm going to start the video. Basically for every two seconds, the lines will move in this space, in this flavor space. Every two seconds equals 15 seconds in real time of evolution in the mouth. And this is the result of experts. So let me play the video, and then we can walk through it. (Video) So you can see that the three curves are different, right? Especially the dark one in the middle, for the 20 years. The flavor evolution is a little bit different from the other two. And now, if you compare that with how the novices do it,... the curves don't really deviate from each other so much. They all kind of follow each other. And this says something about how novices perceive the flavor evolution. Whereas experts are able to clearly differentiate the three lines, for the novices, it's much more of a similar experience. And this brings up [the] point that when it comes to complexity, it's not just what's in the glass, but also what's in the mind of the drinker. Novices and experts have different mental experiences, and they have different concepts of what [complexity] means. So to go back to my Berlyne curve in the beginning, one of the questions that still remain in the world of wine is whether more complexity equals better. We know that for music, too much complexity might not result in more preference. But in the world of wine, we actually haven't found evidence

that too much complexity is bad. So maybe it depends on the mind of the beholder. So my last message to everyone is, the next time you drink something, you eat something, just take some time to slow down and stop and think about how the flavors are evolving over time. Thank you very much.