Demna just shut down Times Square for Gucci Cruise 2027 ‘GucciCore’ covered fifty billboards in fake adverts for Gucci Water and Gucci Air, and staged an anti-consumption spectacle in the capital of consumerism. In this video I break down everything: the concept, the Robert Longo reference, every key look, the beauty, the music written by Demna’s own husband, and whether this is his best work or just Balenciaga in a Gucci belt.
We decode what ‘GucciCore’ actually means Gucci as a feeling, not a logo and Demna’s ‘forever wardrobe’ of core classics: the red Royal Guard-wool peacoat, the Gucci Web censor-bar bandeau on Tom Brady, the Flora-lined fur coats, Paris Hilton’s crocodile takeout bag, and Cindy Crawford’s feathered closing gown. Plus the New York archetypes bankers, socialites, influencers and bodega-flower commuters that turned the runway into a character study.
Then the details nobody else covered: Sam Visser’s anti-‘clean girl’ beauty with unsettling green contact lenses and faux freckles, Mustafa Yanaz’s undone hair, Cam Tran’s Gucci-stripe nails, and the soundtrack by BFRND (now Ioki) Demna’s husband Loïk Gomez built around the melody he first played Demna when they met. We unpack the golden-key invitations and the deep Gucci history they reference.
We also follow the money. Gucci has posted around ten straight quarters of declining sales under Kering, and Demna who grew Balenciaga from roughly $350 million to about $2 billion was hired to fix it. We explain the instant New-York-only retail drop, new CEO Francesca Bellettini, the Kering turnaround stakes, and why an anti-consumption show that sells you the merch the same night is either genius or hypocrisy.
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#gucci #Demna #GucciCore #GucciCruise2027 #FashionRoadman #runwayshow
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Segment 1 (00:00 - 05:00)
Okay, so welcome back to another live stream. As you guys can tell from the title, today we will be talking about Demar's latest Gucci collection. So without further ado, let's get straight into it. Um, before I go on, let me know if you guys have seen the show. I mean, the show happened quite a while ago now, so I'm sure a lot of you have thoughts on the collection. But if you have any opening thoughts, I like to react to your opening thoughts before I get into my hour long, 2hour long, 3-hour long siloqued, if we can call it that. Um, so essentially in a nutshell, this Gucci collection is really just a continuation of what we've seen from Dem. Let me just make myself smaller so you can see the full thing. So, as you can see from the show notes on the Gucci page, they have literally said that this is the fourth series in what is a series of, you know, the fourth act of the character study by Demar. So, we've seen with all the different Gucci collections, the first collection he was looking at different characters of people that are make up the Gucci world in the Gucci universe and the different customers and how they dress and what kind of personalities they have. You had the same one that was more the next collection that was more in the realm of Tom Ford. Then you had the third collection which was looking at mainly Italian and quite specifically Milan archetypes of how people dress, how people wear street wear in Milan, how people wear Gucci in Milan. You had the whole conversation about Miranza and its political significance. That was definitely a thing. And then you have the fourth act, which of course is this collection, Gucci Resort 2027, which is essentially a character study on the typical Gucci customer in New York, or just a character study on the way that New Yorkers in general dress. Um, so yeah, I think it goes without saying. I think it was also very interesting that Demner decided to choose Times Square as the backdrop of this collection. It's quite funny. So on YouTube, Gucci released this Gucci core campaign. And what this campaign is supposed to signify, I have it on the screen for you guys. Essentially, it's a bunch of adverts. Some of them are real Gucci products, not. that essentially are supposed to be all these different adverts that are going to be dotted around during the Gucci show, which is essentially a commentary on capitalism and all the different products that you're sold at Times Square, a place where there is a big significant footfall. So, lots of people see those adverts. So, he kind of wanted to play around in that way and kind of have a commentary on capitalism. We've seen it from Demna a trillion times. Whether that's, you know, a Balenciaga show at New York Stock Exchange or a Balenciaga show uh right in front of the Hollywood sign where you have celebrities walking on the runway and holding Arowan bags and Arowan coffee cups. So he likes to do all these different commentaries on capitalism. Everyone always poses those questions. You know, how genuine is it coming from Demnner when he works at a brand that is essentially at the height of luxury both times, whether we're talking about Gucci or Balenciaga, and they sort of exist and take advantage of a lot of the things that he criticizes. Um, so yeah, that was fascinating. There's also his a historical angle when it comes to this show being in New York. We've also started to see a lot of these cruise collections in New York. We saw Dior have their show in LA. It's it makes a lot of sense. China as a market is almost like it's reached this peak. And while Asia as a region is still the most important market for luxury fashion, when it comes to a single country, America, the United States of America is probably the most important country, if not top three, the top three most important countries in terms of luxury are Japan, China, and the USA. So they are starting to realize that maybe they neglected the USA a lot because they were just thinking about Asia the whole time. Now that the Asian market is slowing down, we are going to start seeing, at least I believe, a lot more luxury brands looking towards the USA once again. So that's why we're seeing these cruise collections. Now, in the world of Gucci, it makes a lot of sense because the first store, the first Gucci store officially outside of Italy was actually in New York in 1953. They said that in the show notes. So essentially this Gucci core collection serves as somewhat of a homecoming for the brand. Um and it being stays in Time Square is just like a homecoming on
Segment 2 (05:00 - 10:00)
steroids essentially. Um so that was kind of the whole vibe of it. Let me see what you guys are saying. The bottle low key looking like liquor. Oh, you mean the bottle of water. The Gucci aqua thing. Uh watched it twice. couldn't tell a single through line. No, there there's definitely a through line with uh Demar's work for 100%. It's just about characters. He's just essentially using Gucci as a backdrop to make a commentary about the different kinds of people that wear Gucci, the way that different people wear Gucci in different regions of the world, the way that different customers depending on geography dress. That's essentially what Demar's whole stick at Gucci is. He's done that four collections in a row and he's probably going to do that in the next collection. Who knows? The next collection might be somewhere. It's probably going to be in Milan, isn't it? So, I don't know what other character thing he could do. Unless it's in Japan and then it's a character study on the way that Japanese people wear Gucci. But if it's in Milan again, which it probably will be, I'm curious to see what other conversation he can have in terms of Gucci characters. Not a fan of the AI usage, but it's the future and I got to get used to it. Yeah, that is an annoying thing that a lot of these luxury brands are using AI when they more than anyone else are supposed to be the people that, you know, promoting real art and actual artists, you know what I mean? Like human artists. Here they have some AI Gucci car. This was funny because this came out before the announcement of their Formula 1 partnership, right? So maybe this was them trying to this Gucci automobile, them teasing that, but obviously this car doesn't exist. So like I said, these are just a bunch of pseudo adverts that they've essentially given us that was also at Times Square during the show as kind of this idea of capitalism and a commentary on capitalism essentially. Um, but anyway, let's look at the show. show cuz you guys get the point. Even now already, this is the show. You can see the Gucci Aqua advert on Time Square in the corner already. So, you'll start to see a lot of those adverts on the runway and around Time Square as you watch the show. You'll start to notice quite a few of those Gucci adverts. Um, but anyway, this show is very from a collection standpoint and from a clothing standpoint, it's very similar to a lot of the clothing he's done in the past collections. Like I said, this is more about characters. So, for example, in the earlier part of the runway show, there were a lot of these looks where you saw people wearing different kinds of tailoring and different suits. That of course is a commentary on the men in suits on the subway that are normally rushing to work and how they dress. So here you can start to see a lot of the suits. A lot of the women who are lawyers in New York, they wear heels and suits. A lot of the men, they wear their backpacks with their suits. So it really is just a commentary on the way that people exist dayto-day in New York and how the average New Yorker dresses. I'd love to see the clothing up close cuz I know Demna always has these little nuggets about the clothing, but just looking at it, they do look like run-of-the-mill suits. There's nothing optically or visually that interesting about a lot of the tailoring other than the story line of the archetypes to be very honest. Um, I do like this coat cuz the buttons are really nice. That's really nice. Luke says, "Archetypes is not a through line. It's a lazy, disingenuous way to disguise a lack of cohesion. I wouldn't say that this collection wasn't cohesive, though. I don't think it wasn't cohesive at all. I just think that it's the same idea for every single collection from Demna, it seems. Of course, there were other inspirations, too, that I think at this point we we've seen a lot of designers use. You guys know me and references that are beaten into the ground. For example, Robert Longo's Men in the Cities. This is something that we've seen over and over again in fashion. So many people have referenced it from people like Ras Simmons to Demna. Um but you guys know it's like a 1980s um set of drawings of men and women in suits caught in like mid contortions uh like they're dancing or falling or being shot or frozen. Um, and a lot of designers like to reference that, especially when they have collections where there's some form of tailoring. Is it innovative? No. Is it revolutionary? No. Is it even remotely creative? Not really, because of how many people have used it. Um, but I do like the throughine of the show, the whole
Segment 3 (10:00 - 15:00)
character thing. Let's see what you guys are saying in the comments. I feel like the women's looks are way better than the men's look men's looks in this collection. I totally agree with you on that. I feel like many brands have archetypes they represent without needing to spell it out for the viewers so much. Fair enough. Um I feel sad that NYC fashion kind of became all sweats and lacking color, but that's the era we're in. Is that true though? Cuz every time I go to New York, I don't know. I see people dressing crazily in a positive way. just like wearing really insane things, uh, wearing all kinds of color. Um, so I don't know if that's the case. I don't live in New York, though. So, if you're a New York native, you would know better than me. But I go to New York at least four times a year, three or four times a year. And every time I go, the I think New Yorkers, they dress with personality. If I'm going to be honest, I feel like just through stunning, you can pull off this archetype story, but the pieces themselves have nothing interesting going on. Um, so I wouldn't say the pieces aren't interesting, though. There were a lot of pieces like the sheerling jacket. I did like I thought that was really nice. I liked how um with the footwear, and you know me and Demar and footwear, I think he just has a really strong team when it comes to footwear to be honest with you. Um, I like that they did those boots with the horse bits. I think those are really going to sell. Those are really cool. Um, I don't know. All the shielding stuff he's done I really like. I think the styling for a lot of the accessories could be improved because the accessories are a lot better than the runaway styling sometimes gives it credit for. Um, so that's an issue. And then they do this thing, right? Let me run it back slightly. So, so normally this yellow dress with the [ __ ] bow blouse sort of thing going on. This is actually quite a nice dress, but it's made gaudy with that massive grow crane um Gucci belt on the waist. So, once again, sometimes the styling lets it down. At least to me, this is all about it's not fact, it's personal taste. To be honest, by the sound of Dena's show notes/ last letter, it sounded like this might be the culmination of his explicit character study. And I hope that means future shows will have more narrative. I guess Demner would tell you though that this has nar that is what the narrative is, which it is to be fair. Um, but yeah, I don't know. These looks here are supposed to represent the New York skate kids, the streetear kids in New York. That's what these looks are supposed to represent. I also want to know why anytime Demar depicts these street wear characters even in, you know, his debut, even though it wasn't his debut, it was his third collection, but in that collection, um, a lot of the people were sagging. like in those streetear looks they were sagging and I wonder if he's ever going to speak about that or have a commentary on why they are sagging especially in a luxury context. It's just I find it strange. Uh someone says I really like the red fur coats with the flowers on the inside. Yeah. Uh the characters are caricatures of people based on a narrow European view. Snore going back to his character collection of Vet Mo where one of his characters was homeless. driving me nuts. Fair enough. My take on Demlin now is that dude is like the broken record. He needs to widen his visual and philosophical vocabulary very soon. I I'm definitely with you on that. I'm very with you on that. Does Karen not realize the overall effect that the kind of vulgarity present in the clothing and presentation is going to have on Gucci's long-term reputation? Nobody at Carring is thinking rationally. I don't know though because ultimately you need to think financially carrying how many quarters in a row was Gucci's revenue down on a comparison basis to the previous year's quarter. So for them they've tried everything. They tried to do quite luxury with Sabato Dano. It didn't necessarily work. They got rid of Allesandre Mckela, which I think him too early and they were suffering from that. So now they're like the last frontier is to get our superstar designer from Balenciaga and hope that he fixes things. Now one thing I will say about Demar because there's one thing about talking about the narrative of the runway shows and how valid that is. I think it's also another thing talking about the products he
Segment 4 (15:00 - 20:00)
makes and are they desirable and will people actually wear them? Because me personally, like Micah has bought some of Demna's Gucci stuff. I've bought some of Demn Demna's Gucci stuff. So, he still makes products that you want to buy. Like, he still makes it still like if I was a woman, for example, those Tom Ford pump heels with the horse bit, I probably would have bought those. If I was a woman, I would probably buy the boots with the horse bit. If I was a woman, there would also there quite a few bags I'd probably buy. A few dresses I would probably buy. So, it's there. It's just when you look at the runway show and you see these really boring men's wear looks and you see men sagging and it's supposed to be a commentary on the way people dress in the city. I don't know. It's a bit weird visually, but there is stuff there. There is I'm not going to pretend like there isn't stuff there. A super skinny suit or back. So there's a commentary on that back again like the last show 100%. Love m is always sagging jeans even doing in the Under Armour Balenciaga show. Yeah, I remember that show. I remember that [ __ ] He's starting to remind me of Eddie with the stagnant designs. So I think I I'm not um mad at people having stagnant designs. I think there's just a way of doing it. Like I don't have an issue with Ali Sman's aesthetic. Even if he does it 10 seasons in a row, I just like the aesthetic. So, I don't have an issue with it. Even if he does it over and over again, Yoji does the same thing over and over again. I think why with Demar it's so apparent is because he keeps saying I don't do the same thing or I don't do gimmicks. If he didn't say those things, I think him doing the same thing over and over again would land a lot better. Cuz Yodi Yamamoto doesn't come out and say, "Oh, I don't do the same thing. " Or, you know, Eddie Sman has never come out and said, "I'm not doing the same thing. You people just don't understand. " Blah, blah. Like Eddie San has never said that, right? So, I think also he can be his worst enemy at times with things that he says publicly. That's definitely a thing. Uh Kang doesn't want to go through another scenario where a superstar designer's aesthetic rules the brand because the brand inevitably crashes and burns when that designer leaves. Yep, we've seen that with Tom Ford. Alexander McKela. Uh and now we're probably going to see it with Demar after he leaves. leaves. So I do think a strategy of creating a design framework that future designs will have to work within to meet the existing Gucci customers is a smart move. H I don't know if that's a right strategy though cuz ultimately like I've been talking about Mati Blasy's Chanel for example and I don't think Matublazi is necessarily designing within a framework. is just Chanel has certain house codes like using tweed and doing certain things and so long as you hit that you can kind of do whatever you want and I think Gucci should just have stronger house codes and maybe hopefully Demar can build those out so any designer that comes after cuz even stuff like this for example uh where Demar is really using this Gucci Flora print over and over again and I actually like every time he uses it every piece I've seen him make for the Gucci floral print. I think it's actually really good. Like this is really this is a really nice coat. I actually like the shape of it. Uh what do you think Carring does next if Demler doesn't succeed, which is likely I don't know. I think he's going to succeed. Um what does Karing do next? That's a good question. I mean I think first of all one thing that Kerring is doing is Kerring has invested heavily in San Lauron and they've invested heavily in Bayga Ventor. The reason why they're doing that is because they don't want Gucci to be so like you know cuz Carring is essentially the Gucci company and when Gucci suffers carrying suffers. When Gucci does well caring does well they want to rely a lot less on Gucci as a brand for their overall revenue. So I started to see them ramping up. Salamor Salam has been growing slightly. Bayga obviously has seen insane levels of growth in recent times. Balenciaga that was growing but under Pop Palo I don't know what's going to happen with Balenciaga. So let's just not talk about that. Um, so I think really Salon, Bautga, Venice are the two focus are the two brands that they are focusing on to shorten the gap between those brands and Gucci so they're less reliant on Gucci.
Segment 5 (20:00 - 25:00)
So I think that's honestly long-term what they're doing anyway. Uh, I have a question. What do people want to see from Gucci? Yeah, that's a good question. I'm curious on what guys in the chat, what do you guys want to see from Gucci? and specifically Dem's Gucci. What are you guys expecting? Also, L good point. Yoji does Yoji at Yoji, but Demar is doing Dem at Gu. Fair enough. I think people will always want Gucci to be like the Tom Ford era. But is that true though? Because Gucci saw historically the best performing Gucci ever was under Alexander McKela. when their revenue figures were at the height of Gucci that they're trying to get back to that was under Aleandra McKela. So we can say that you know people want Tom Ford at Gucci but statistically that's not necessarily true because they made the most revenue under Sandra Mckela and ever since he's left it's been downhill since then. So I don't know if that's true, you know. true. I think the people of Gucci have convinced themselves that that's the case, but I don't know if that's true. Uh, what do you think about the casting of these huge celebrities as models? Is it just for marketing or is there some commentary? I think it's both. So, I think one is marketing obviously because it's Time Square, it's in New York, you know, you have people like Tom Brady walking like a Robocop in the runway show. that's always going to essentially have eyeballs. I think it's also a commentary on how New York is as a city anyway. New York is a city that you see celebrities at very dayto-day places. Like people see celebrities on the subway, people see celebrities walking on the street. So, I definitely think there's a commentary there having mixing in celebrities just on Time Square because it is the kind of place that you could see a celebrity just walking past on a random Wednesday. So, I definitely think there is a commentary there. Someone Satan Lucifer said, "I never even really cared for Tom Ford's Gucci. " Okay, that's interesting. I'm definitely a big fan of Tom Ford's Gucci. I just think that you can't necessarily say that people want Tom Ford Gucci so much when Gucci's best financial performance of all time has been under Allesandre McKela. You know what I mean? Um what's the reasoning behind the flowers? Uh it's just the Gucci code. So Gucci has all these different prints. But their most famous prints being the Gucci flora prints which obviously have a lot of flowers and stuff. So it's kind of a Gucci house code to have flowers printed on garments, people holding flowers, flower motifs, flower motifs on accessories. It's just a Gucci code essentially. Okay, let's see what Luke says. For Gucci, I want to see sexy, desirable clothes, some color, but some sharpness in the tailoring. Clothes that feel considered and are complexely designed to be seductive and frivolous. Okay, that's fair enough. So, one thing about Demnner, the reason why I've never seen Demar clothing as sexy, I don't think Demner is ever going to be a designer that you go to for sexy silhouettes, is his silhouettes are too baggy. I think designers that have the most sexy in that sense clothing are designers that sculpt around the body perfectly. So people like I don't know Azadine a liar designers like that or I'm trying to think cuz Muglare was sexy but Muglare his work was sexy veering on like almost too far sexy in a sense. Not that there's anything wrong with that. Um, I'm trying to think of who else is like a very sexy designer that does it really well. Um, I mean, yeah, Peter Mullier, too, but Peter Mullia is still a bit more um laidback compared to Azadina. His silhouettes are a bit further away from the body. They're a bit wider. They're a bit looser than Azadina himself. Uh, yeah, kind of what Luke is saying. Muglare was a bit too draggy and too costume. Exactly. So even though it's sexy, it's still like almost too far off the edge. So that's the thing about Demna. I don't think Demna can do sexy and I don't think that's his strength in a way. But either way, you I feel like anyone can make anything sexy. It's how you wear it and it's your aura and it's your energy to be honest. Um someone can wear something really baggy and make it look sexy. It's just
Segment 6 (25:00 - 30:00)
styling. We also have a very typical demnitism with this show. At the end, the looks are these expertly made sort of couture level gowns that he's been doing since the start of his time at Balenciaga. Um, tip typical deminism. Typical typical. typical typical. Let's go back to the adverts. Let me see what guys are saying. Um, I liked his spring summer 26 because it was sort of if you guess it, you guess it. This continues this but with less passion, less innuendo. Yeah, I totally agree cuz I think the thing about let's say spring summer 26 is that with spring summer 26 I think what was really I guess strong about it were the characters seemed a lot more fun and more interesting and it had all these funky names like the primadana and all these kind of things. It was the character development was actually really fun and accompanied with that campaign film that they did that really spoke more about the characters that built on the story. Whereas I think a time square version of doing characters where it's like okay there's people wearing suits because on New York subways we see people wearing suits or we see the Gucci customer in New York that wears boots and a nice minikrt on a night out. like that's too on the nose and it's a bit too obvious um for it to be remotely interesting. Um yeah, here again we have a reference that people have beaten into the ground like I was saying earlier in terms of Robert Longo. Yeah, this is a reference I've seen so many designers do. Honestly, let's see what you guys are saying. There's a lot of comments. Oh my god, people are engaged today. People have a lot to say. It looks like we've seen it looks like things we've seen already in early 2000s. I would much rather see Gucci by Martin Rose or Wales. That's fair enough because they would bring something new to the table other than something I guess is not that's not so familiar in a sense. Same for Eddie for Seline. He never used celebrities either and that was the highest selling Seline too. Maybe very rarely. Yeah, that definitely was the highest selling Seline. I think when he does those body fit looks, it looks sexy like that woman with the white short hand, black pants sometimes cuz Demar also when Demar does the sexy thing, he does it he does those looks where everything is really tight and so it looks like you're wearing like a Lululemon onesize coverall if that makes sense. And that's not really I don't obviously sexy is subjective but that's very strippery for lack of a better term. It's not I don't know like my idea of what sexy is. Maybe this is different to a lot of people and like I said it's subjective but I don't really find some skin type polyester coverall that sexy to be honest. I just think it looks cheap. Um, and I don't associate cheap looking things with being sexy personally. Um, so yeah, I would personally want less of the trashy unclean neuvo ree stuff that just isn't aspirational enough to bring any real growth to the brand and make it more fun and just a little class. Yeah, that's essentially what I was alluding to. Uh, sorry. 2025 revenue was almost 6 billion and profit almost 1 billion. Still doing well, but that was a 40% decrease in profit year on year. Yeah, but like I said, um, let me bring up the stats of um, I'm going to find out the peak revenue figures during Allesandre McKela's time at Gucci. One second. Okay. So, as of Landre McKela's peak annual revenue, Gucci reached a record 10. 5 billion in 2022. So, there we go. So, Gucci has never reached since 2022, they have not reached 10. 5 billion euros. They've been struggling to hit that number once again. Meanwhile, a lot of
Segment 7 (30:00 - 35:00)
their competitors like Louis Vuitton, like I don't know, Chanel, like Ames, they continue to see growth regardless. They just always see growth. It's actually quite insane. Always. Someone saying, "I would love a Maximillian Davis Gucci. " That would be interesting. I think that would be Sabat Doano 2. 0, know, but more interesting and done better, if that makes sense. A lot of the Prima Vera show looks that I saw people wear to this cruise show look bad on the non-model crowd. Fair enough. Maxim needs to say comfy at Feramo. That's interesting. So, the bodycon stuff is not really for me personally. I'm not really the biggest fan of the bodycon stuff, especially when it's in that polyestery looking fabric. I I'm just not a fan of it at all. It just looks like the kind of thing that you would buy from Lululemon or Aloe or Skiims. Not a luxury brand like Balenciaga or in this case Gucci. Um, so I think that's my main issue with it to be honest. skin type. Polyester is one of the least tactile sexiness. I feel like you're sparing Demar a proper reading. Not necessarily. You guys know I don't really like on these streams, I don't really give Demar a pass. And I say this I think I actually think that Demnner and it's funny. I say this every single stream. I think that one Demo is one of the most important designers of this generation. Two, I think he's a really good designer. I just think that I think Demar is what happens when a very talented designer is around too many yesmen. I think that that's basically what happens with Demar where people just like, "Yeah, it's good. It's good. No constructive criticism, no one with like interesting ideas to develop his ideas a bit further and to make it deeper than surface level interpretations of things. I just think that's what the issue is personally and I think when he was earlier in his career earlier at whether it's late at Vetmore or at Balenciaga I just personally think that he had more interesting things to say at Vetmore for example he was making commentaries on Georgian the Georgian war communism he was making commentaries on um immig immigration. Obviously, he was a refugee himself. It was just the themes were deeper, more layered, more interesting. Now, it just seems like this is how people wear Gucci in New York, it's just not the same. It really is not the same. Um, and as someone that has been following G Demner from the exact start from the early days of Vet, there's like you can clearly see the difference. like there's a quite obvious difference. So, I think that's my issue personally. I just think he hasn't he's not necessarily developing per se as a designer conceptually. But I still mean I still think regardless of all of that, he makes really desirable products and that's why I buy his Gucci and that's why Micah buys his Gucci and a lot of other people I know buy his Gucci and bought his Balenciaga when he was there. Um, so yeah. We'll just go through some of these looks. Have a look. All the sagging baggy pants once again. Oh my gosh. The cap worn backwards, denim on denim, all this kind of stuff. What do you guys think about um some of the footwear? like the icon sneakers. I know I made a short video about it. I'm curious to know what you guys think about uh some of the footwear. Let me um go on the designer the Gucci designers page. Yeah, this is the for people that don't know this is the head of sneakers uh for Gucci. I don't know. I don't really know how to say her name. Bianic, Bianique, I guess. Um, but I always like going on their page because they have all the new like projects that they're working on, including the Gucci designs. So, this is the new sneaker that came from this collection. Uh, this is the icon sneaker. This sneaker reminds me of
Segment 8 (35:00 - 40:00)
this is the kind of sneaker that you would see African or Asian rich Indian or African especially Nigerian uncles wearing in London. This is the kind of shoe they wear. This is quite literally like the rich Indian or Nigerian uncle shoe. Like straight up. Um and I think I actually saw that was one of the reference points actually. So, yeah, this is the new sneaker that they're working with. A lot of people like them. Some people didn't like them, to be honest. I've tried on some of the footwear at the Gucci store and they're incredibly comfortable and the leather quality is super good, the clothes on there. Fair enough. And I guess that's really important because what sells tends to be the footwear and the accessories. So, ultimately, that is what's more important for Gucci's bottom line. And that's probably where a lot of the development and time has gone into the fact that they don't have a viral sneaker. Surprising. I think they do. You know what are these? Um, let me go on the Gucci website. Those flat loafers. I forgotten what they call them to be very honest. I see them a lot. A lot of people have bought those um loafers. I need to see what are they called again. Totally forgotten. Maybe they'll be under loafers on the website. Um yeah, these they're called the Ragato loafer. These here I've seen so many people wearing these. So maybe they're not viral in the sense of they're not getting trillions of views on Tik Tok a month, but in terms of what I see on the street, I genuinely see so many people wearing these in London. So I think this is the I guess the closest thing that they've come to some sort of a viral shoe cuz they're not really a sneaker, but a viral shoe you can call it. I like that they're leaning away from coated canvas monogram again. Fair enough. Uh, is the craftsmanship on par with Anderson's Dior Beta? It's the one thing to create styles, but the quality is not there. Well, first of all, it's definitely not going to be on par with Beta. That's just not going to happen. Uh Dior. Uh people in the chat, you're going to have to help me out with that one because I don't have a lot of experience with JW Anderson's Dior up close the way I do with Bayega. And like Bayga, I go to all the Reese's. I've seen all the Bayga collections under Louis Trotter up close. I felt all the garments, every single one. So I'm very, you know, I'm locked in when it comes to Beta quality. But in terms of JW Anderson's Dior, I I'm not I don't really know. Also, these sneakers, a lot of people have been talking about them. They're sort of a hybrid between a high top smart sneaker and a basketball sneaker. These are also sneakers that people have really liked. Um this is from the previous show. People have been talking about that. There's also um who's the guy that does the Yeah, Bastion Board. He does the He's the men's wear designer at Gucci. He's also really cool. So, he's been a person designing all these super long ass looking um exaggerated toe loafers and shoes and all that sort of stuff, right? Abalenciaga. So, this for example is called the Giovani loafer. This is from Gucci Prima Vera. This is a sort of a snakeskin version. once again. Um, so yeah, this the team from Balenciaga was brought to Gucci and to be honest, that's really strong team. So I expect consistent good footwear from the team. Someone says the shoes are making me sick to my stomach. I actually don't mind if he does some baggy stuff. Just beautify it, recontextualize it, not just copy paste. Fair enough. Yeah, Anderson's accessories are really good. I will agree with you there. And I like what Seline and JW Anderson are doing, kind of making silk scarfs popular as a styling thing. The whole, you know, old emblem, as a belt logo. Seline and um Dior have been doing that. I like that as a as an aspect. Also, what do you guys think about these sort of ultra pointy shoes? I'm just curious what you guys Obviously, they do look like clown shoes. Um, but worn with the right thing. I've actually seen these kind of these style of shoes look quite good to be fair. Funny enough, his wardrobe is so interesting.
Segment 9 (40:00 - 45:00)
Obviously, all these designs that he's designed at Balenciaga and obviously now Gucci, he's got them. Balenciaga motorcycle boots in the corner. That's Oh, this is a lot of Balenciaga grails. Fair enough. Even the shoes that were famous at Allesandre Mckela Alisandra Mcklla's era. What are they called? The Prince Town or the Princeton loafer? I always get them mixed up. Are they Prince Town or Princeton? Uh, let me Google it. Okay. Prince Town loafers. Yeah. So, what they've done because the toe box of the original Prince Town loafers were curved, they've made it more boxy. So, that's interesting. So, the front is flat now instead of curved. I'm not a fan of that style of elongated shoe. Um, uh, oh, and it's been long enough we can admit Kim Jones is better than JW. It depends who you speak to. So, I don't know why there seems to be this competition between Chanel and Dior, even though I don't know who created that narrative. I personally prefer Chanel to Dior. Not that it's a competition. I don't think JW Anderson's Dior is necessarily has spoken to me yet, especially on the men's wear side. I would definitely say if we're talking about men's wear, I definitely prefer Kim Jones's Dior men's wear to JW. But I think when it comes to women's wear, I think JW takes that to be fair. I think he definitely takes that. I love them, but I love a bizarre shoe silhouette. flat and slender now bulky and oversized two years ago. Yeah, exactly. Um, Alessandro had five days to do his first Gucci show and produced two of his highest earning products, the Princetown loafer and the Dionis bag. Dem hasn't generated anything like those yet. True, true. Cuz the Prince loafer was like viral. That was and the Dianis bag too actually. So yeah, that is correct. He's yet to produce that one item that just trumps where when people think of Demnes Gucci, people think of like those specific products. We haven't done that yet cuz you know when people think of Demnes Balenciaga, they think of What do you think of? You think of the Triple S? You think of those sock sneakers? You think of the runners? all the different iterations and variations and sizes and thicknesses. Uh you think of the Gucci hack, you think of the just wide silhouettes in general. Uh you think of some of the couture looks, the gowns, you think of I mean there's certain products I really like when it comes to Demar's era of Balenciaga. For example, those Balenciaga shaped uh like cocoon-shaped puffer jackets. I think those are really cool. Taking Balenciaga silhouettes and recontextualizing that based on what the Balenciaga client wears in the modern day, which is things like puffer jackets and things like that. So there's like some cool items that I can talk about forever when it comes to Demas Balenciaga, but I think when it at Gucci that we haven't found one of those yet for sure as a size 10 wear, leave the long shoe for the size eight and under. Yeah, that's the thing. I wear a US men's 12. So my feet are already boat. So I don't wear like I can't wear shoes that are long cuz my feet are already long. So it just makes my shoes look even longer and it just looks weird. So yeah, th those shoes are definitely not for uh big feet to men like me for sure. They're definitely for a size four, a size five, you know. those kind of sizes. Okay. Okay, Bastion, we're trying to look at shoes. Not you in a towel, even though I'm a big fan of your work. Um, so yeah, that's the footwear. One thing about DMA is his designs tend to have the occasional sense of humor. Don't know how that sensibility translates to Gucci with a shoe like this. No, I appreciate Demar's sense of humor through the clothing. To be honest, I'm quite a fan of it. I don't mind it. I don't
Segment 10 (45:00 - 50:00)
necessarily think it's a bad thing. Also, I got the Martin Rose Nike shocks and yeah, size 13. The Martin Rose shocks are long looking. Like the toe box is kind of pointy, but they're not so bad that you know, you can't wear it. You know, if you have big feet, like some of these Demna Gucci shoes, genuinely, you can't wear them. You're going to look like you're wearing clown shoes if you have big feet and you wear them. To be fair, um, oh god, it's also so funny like how people are making memes of um, Tom Brady. Like, why does he walk like that? He walks so stiff. I don't know if it's just because being an NFL player, he just has too many muscles in the way, but why does he walk so stiff? I've never seen someone walk that stiff in my entire life. He genuinely walks like a robot. Like, it's actually quite insane. He walks like if you run into him, you would fall to the ground and he would be standing. Like if I was running at speed and I bumped into him, I would go flying and he would just be walking normally. Oh my gosh. Okay, I'll just grab the shocks in red, too. And they do look pretty huge in a men's 11 US. Fair enough. It gives the Terminator when he walks the FX. still confused why Dena casted Brady out of everyone else in the NFL. Um, I guess cuz Tom Brady is the most famous American football player of all time and the greatest. So, I guess if you want to, you know, cast an NFL player, why not cast the most famous one? I guess that's probably the reason why Brady has permanent shoulder pads built in. That's hilarious. Dude walks as if the fit was starched 10 times. Exactly. It's just funny. It's like, why does he walk like that? Uh, what I want to do though, I do want to go on the on their website and see some of the prices of a lot of their new stuff. Um, and I put it in the US store, so it's in dollars. for my Americans in the chat right now cuz most my audience is uh those from the state side. But yeah, these shoes are really the shoes I've seen sell the best. At least the ones I see people wearing on the streets. This Ragata loafer. Um but I'm curious to see let's see some of the women's wear stuff. ready to wear. Okay, silk jakard shirt. Is that 100% silk or is that just very Alisandra McKela with the [ __ ] bow blouse sort of vibe? Very Alisandre McKela. Okay, at least it's 100% silk. I'm not mad at it. Um, let's see. Okay, a lot of silks. Silk skirt. Silk shirts. That's good. A silk tweed shirt. Jersey swimsuit. Yeah, this is where Gucci makes their money. $5 worth of fabric. The profit margins on stuff like this is outrageous. 820 is outrageous. Obviously, there's nothing wrong with it being 820 because it's a luxury brand. it's in line that things have to be priced in line with all their other products. It's just funny um that people actually buy stuff like this. And it's 77 77% polyester, 23% elastane. H that's a bit of a steep price, mate. A lot more silks. Silk twill. The [ __ ] bow stuff is really nice. I'm not going to lie. Like if if you just want something where you kind of look a bit chic, but you throw it on without thinking, a lot of these [ __ ] Blow uh shirts are a good choice, to be honest. Silk shirt. That's kind of cool. Just a nice shirt, but instead of cotton, it's silk. Um, do you know what it is? So, this kind of stuff is the stuff that is the kind of thing that Tom Ford would make these sort of, you know, jersey bodysuits. But I think the world building
Segment 11 (50:00 - 55:00)
with Demos Gucci isn't there for I think a lot of people to want to buy those bodysuits. They don't I don't think women feel like and women in the chat cuz I don't want to speak for women. Like let me know what you guys think. Um I'm just curious like do you think that Demar's world building has been strong enough to make you want to buy into this sort of sexy Tom Ford uh you know jersey bodysuit Gucci vibe? I don't personally think so, but I'd like to know what the women in the chat have to say. Uh, Blasy Chanel feels super wearable and less groundbreaking, but somehow it's a seismic shift. JW Anderson's Dior guns for that commercial quality and makes a run for the money. Fair enough. Uh, before it was, oh, it's a satirical/ironic commentary on the rich. Now it's Oh, it's Gucci, so that's on brand. Okay. Culture says absolutely not. Fair enough. This is kind of cool. A plain jersey top but just with the horse bits. This is a cool way to take a really basic product cuz I always think of how are things going to do commercially and it's things like this that are going to sell in droves, right? The rich girl who's like, I need a vest for the summer. walk into the Gucci store, they find the one with the horse bits and they buy this and it's very recognizable to their friends when they go out in the summer that it's a Gucci piece. I think that's a good way to commercialize something very basic. Not that, you know, if I was a woman, I would buy it, but I think it's a good way to commercialize stuff. Even this is a cool um proposition of a tracksuit, right? Cuz I think tracksuits look too casual a lot of times and they're not suitable to wear in a lot of different settings. But when it's sort of a polo shirt two-piece like this, it kind of looks more chic. Even though it still is fundamentally attracts you as a two-piece and you wear it with I like the styling here. heels or pumps or kitten heels or, you know, boots and it kind of looks a bit more chic. Uh, it's cool. It reminds me of the Y project tank. Oh, yeah. Yeah, yeah. Malibu, mom. Yeah, definitely, definitely. I work at Bloomingdales in New York City and Chanel is selling like hotcakes. It's always packed with CL. Oh my god. Let me just talk about Chanel quickly and then we'll go back to Gucci. So, I've been doing a lot of coverage about a lot of the frenzies that the Chanel drops. When I was in Paris for fashion week, they dropped the collection. There were insane cues. Obviously, they had their Bond Street launch of the Meta Deart collection yesterday that had a lot of cues. And people in my um comment section are always saying that I've been paid by Chanel and that this is made up and that it's a PR push and the only people buying it are industry insiders and influencers that have been paid to talk about it, which one doesn't make sense cuz Chanel doesn't even pay people. Um Chanel really does not pay people. Um so that's out the window. Secondly, quite literally, like I don't know why people think it's fake. Like people are obsessed with uh Mati Brazie Chanel. I don't think people understand to be honest. Uh when I can make a flipping ironic statement on previous worlds, I guess I don't need a new one. Fair enough. But yeah, going back to the Chanel talk. So, it's just one of those things where I don't know why people don't like Matu Blazi or they don't want to believe in Matublazi Chanel. I don't really know what that's about to be honest. There's someone at my doorstep slamming on the doorbell, but I've got to stream. They have to wait or they have to call me if they have my number. Um, I think Chanel looks great. I've never really been a Chanel girl, but I've wanted a few pieces from his collections. Yeah, especially the footwear. What is really flying at Chanel and the bags cuz they have that new flat bag design, but outside of that, it's a lot of the pumps are really good. They're really good. Someone said it's open up. Oh my gosh, that's funny.
Segment 12 (55:00 - 60:00)
Why is I assuming at the same time as the summer game fest? Fair enough. Cuz the fashion audience don't care about stuff like that. Um but anyway, so yeah, the Chanel thing, I don't know what it is. I don't know why people don't want to believe that it's selling. Actually, I know what it is. I I'm going to contradict myself. I know what it is. When Blasy first joined Chanel and Blas's whole job at Chanel, at least from my perspective, is to usher in Chanel and make it sexy for a younger demographic. So, I'm talking millennials who essentially are going to be the most important customers right now. They are the people that are going to have the buying power and then of course Gen Z who are in the next generation going to be the ones with the buying power. So Matthew Blazee is essentially the designer that ushers in that customer base. So Chanel stays relevant and continues to grow. That's his job. So you had a lot of devout Chanel customers who have been Chanel customers for 40 plus years, 50 plus years. They always buy the couture collections. They are the people that buy the $100,000 tweed jacket, you know, all the time. So those people are the people that you know I guess from their perspective they were like it's not this is not Chanel this is not true Chanel this is I don't like the Chanel and I think those are the people that are Matthew Blazy's detractors or you know they don't believe in Matthew Blazy's designs I guess in a way um so yeah one second let me answer this phone call I think the person who was ringing on the door but actually does my number. One second. Okay, back to the stream, guys. Okay, so let's go. Let me see what you guys are saying. Um, damn Gucci balls me to death. Damn. Uh, by the way, what is it? What is the within industry opinion on ERD? God, not ERD. So I think erd there's a specific customer for erd. That person is just not me. So I'm definitely not the erd customer. Um I think erd is it's one of those brands. It's derivative of so many brands that I'm aware of. So erod is like very derivative of things like uh like I don't know chrome hearts for example. A lot of the products that they make is very Chrome Hearts ripoff. Um, they try to be edgy, but I don't think that they're that edgy. I just think I think the people that wear erod tend to be weirdos. Not everyone, but I would say 80% of erod wearers are really strange. Like really they're the kind of I mean it's even in the name, right? Depressed rich kids arance rich depime. Um the whole concept of the brand is just terrible in my opinion. Um I think the pe yeah the people that wear it tend to be weirdos. They tend to you know like that recently they dropped this loafer that's called the racist uncle loafer trying to be edgy but it's just weird. It's just it I don't care for the brand at all. Have they made products that I've thought have been decent? Yes, sometimes. But for the most part, I just think the brand is just terrible. I don't care for the brand. I don't like the people that wear the brand for the most part. I don't think anything that they make is interesting. And I think that everything that they make, I can find a better version at another brand, whether that's at Chrome Hearts or whether that's at, you know, any other brand to be honest.
Segment 13 (60:00 - 65:00)
Um, so yeah, but I think from an industry insider point, if I was to think of my other friends that are journalists or critics or content creators, most of them don't like erod. Most of them just think erod is weird. And the people that wear erod are weirdos. They also tend to be like really racist, especially the white kids that wear there's a certain kind of white kid from LA that wears erd that's like racist and probably you know sexually assaults women and you know all this kind of thing. I don't like every time I think of um the LA white kid that wears erd is just I just think of an abuser. I don't know why they just look like they treat people badly. I don't know how to put it. People probably know what I'm talking about. People in the chat probably know what I'm alluding to. Yeah, Melamea does the aesthetic a lot better and they don't do the weird edgy thing, right? Um, so that's the thing. But yeah, erd is just no. It's not for me. Where do you even find those erd wearing people? Uh, London, New York, LA. LA is the main one. I' I haven't seen more people wear erd personally than in LA. LA is where I see it the most. Um, I'm not sure you guys in the chat, maybe you guys see it in other cities too that I'm not too privy to, but let me know. I'm curious to know what you guys are talking about in the chat. Like, okay, erd customers are, and that's why I said it's not every single er customer, right? Cuz I'm trying to think of when there was a point in time of Vet Mo where people that were wearing Vet Mo were really insufferable. like when you saw someone wearing Vetmore, not the ear the people that were wearing it earlier on cuz they were just into like the concept of it and you know the fact it was cold fashion and all that sort of stuff, but there was a certain uh vet person that was just so insufferable. And I think erable people that used to wear Vet Moore when I was younger, those are the people that wear erod now. And the new generation of people that weren't around during that vet era, those are the annoying kids that wear erod now. Essentially, I think I'm the only person in Minnesota who even knows what erod is. Oh my gosh. I think this chat ski is older, but a lot of young fashion heads are ERD obsessed. Especially every single ED you wear now. Yeah, I know. I mean, I am a lot older. Like I'm 28 years old, so I'm like the tail end of like old Gen Z, right? Um, so obviously it's not for me. I definitely think erod is for a younger demographic. But that's why I said when I was younger, it just reminds me of when I was younger, the insufferable people that used to wear Vetmore, that archetype of person that's, you know, 16, 17, 18, rich kid, they are now wearing erod cuz vet also when I was younger was super expensive. So the only way I could afford it was if I was reselling Supreme and Vetmon was so low on my list of priorities back then cuz I used to use all my money to buy and Maester or Rick or Yoji mostly or Y3 even. Um I'm literally in my bedroom. I can show you guys something. One second. Let me show you guys. Um let's see. Okay, for example, this is one of the first jackets I ever bought. Like, this is a waifu jacket. So, this is the kind of stuff This is a triple zip. I've had this jacket since I was like 17 and it still fits me, but this jacket here, I'm not sure if you guys can see it. Let me full screen. I just realized the screen is tiny. Of course, you can't see it. Yeah, this Y3 triple zip jacket here. So back then that's what I used to spend my money on to be honest. Um and yeah the richer kids they would just wear vet mall and that's so insufferable. I just thinking of the kind of person that used to wear vet mall back then random but when looking in the tailoring section sites uh why can you select a
Segment 14 (65:00 - 67:00)
size if it's tailored? Um because Taylor just means like sometimes a silhouette or something like that. You know what I mean? Yeah. But yeah, anyway guys, that is my uh saliloqued on Gucci and the whole Gucci collection. I just wanted to hop on live and kind of talk about it cuz I realized I haven't talked about it and sometimes with these runway shows I let them get away from me and then by the time I'm like okay I have time to talk about it it's too late and obviously once next season starts I'm going to pity then I'm going to Milan and I'm going to Paris and there won't be time to you know look into all these things. So yeah, headache, headache. Let me see. We can I'll answer a few more questions, then I have someone waiting for me outside. So I do have to wrap this stream up soon. What did I think of the CSM show? To be honest, I haven't really um looked at it properly. Let me pull that up right now. CSMBA fashion. Yeah, I haven't really had a I haven't looked at it yet. I haven't seen a lot of content around it, though. Normally, every year there's some designer that does something outrageous that everyone makes a video about, but I haven't really seen every anyone really um like make those reals this time around. has actual road men waiting outside for him. That's funny. Okay, you guys are talking about er. Fair enough. Anyway, guys, I'll probably be back on stream maybe tomorrow. Who knows? Uh talking about a different topic. Maybe we will be talking about Chanel. Um but yeah, thank you very much everyone for tuning in. Of course, if you want to watch it back, watch it back. Um, if you want to uh watch these streams back, I always post them on Spotify. So, if you have a Spotify account, definitely check that out. Um, and if you are a YouTube channel member or on Patreon, uh, expect some interesting content. I have like five videos planned that I scripted, so expect some stuff coming. Um, and on that note, I'll see you guys in the next stream or the next video, who knows? Uh but thank you very much everyone for tuning.